Review: Tori San does a tasty homage to tori paitan ramen, but isn’t quite the real thing

When it comes to ramen in Singapore, the creamy chicken (tori paitan) version has never quite managed to capture the same limelight as tonkotsu, the well-loved version made primarily from pork bones. 

That said, I sometimes find myself craving for the former more than its porky counterpart. The chicken rendition tends to be less heavy-hitting, yet it is every bit as comforting and warm, with even more collagen to boot (yes, I’m vain that way).

There aren’t many chicken ramen specialists out there, but they do exist.

Ramen Keisuke Tori King, Kyoto Ramen Hachicken, and Mensho X are just some of the ramen places in Singapore that have carved out their own loyal followings with their own take on chicken ramen.

So when the new restaurant Tori San opened its doors in Telok Ayer, I took note.

The backstory

Tori San, which originates from Taiwan, focuses on what it calls Tokyo-style tori paitan ramen. It has six outlets in Taipei, and the Singapore outlet marks its first overseas expansion.

Its Singapore location couldn’t be more convenient — it is located a stone’s throw away from Telok Ayer MRT, marked by a striking green awning. The Singapore concept is more or less the same as its Taiwanese counterpart, centering entirely on chicken done well, if you haven’t already guessed from the name. 

Tori San Singapore’s menu comes with a selection of four ramen bowls and yakitori, alongside a few Singapore exclusives such as dan dan noodles that can’t be found in Taiwan. 

Its Singapore outlet’s ambience hits the right notes, too. 

Tori San at Telok Ayer has that clean, warm, and contemporary ramen bar look, without feeling too sterile and boring. 

That said, the space is rather cramped and probably laid out in a manner which maximises diner turnover, with counter seating facing the open kitchen and several window-side tables that catch the afternoon light. 

It’s cosy enough for a quick solo lunch or a casual catch-up with a friend or colleague, but probably not for larger groups.

Our verdict

I’ll be honest: Tori San is a great place for tasty noodles and solid chicken, but don’t come expecting a completely authentic Japanese experience. 

It feels like more of a homage to Japanese ramen with a fusion approach, even though the restaurant proclaims itself as serving up authentic Tokyo-style tori paitan, but more on that later on.

It’s not a bad thing, though. The chicken dishes are all generally good, and for what I’m paying — especially in a prime location like Telok Ayer — the portion sizes are generous.

There’s also the thoughtful touch of a complimentary lemon calpis slushie that is served as a palate cleanser when you first sit down — the ice-cold beverage is a welcome reprieve, too, in sunny Singapore.

What it’s good for

The signature tori paitan ramen (S$12.90) is where you should start — the broth is smooth and gently silky with a natural chicken sweetness that feels clean and restrained.

It’s enjoyable, but notably lighter than what I’d expect from a classic tori paitan. Rather than being thick and collagen-rich, it comes across more like a well-executed chicken soup.

The chicken toppings, however, are where Tori San really shines: Two slices of sous vide chicken breast that are tender and well-seasoned, marinated chicken thigh “char siew” cut into thick cubes, springy and juicy with soft skin still attached, and a subtly sweet chicken meatball with peppery undertones and bits of cartilage adding texture. 

I also added a ramen egg (S$1.50), and while the egg is nicely cured, it tasted a tad too sweet.

I’m not a huge fan of the medium-thick noodles, which are on the firmer and less elastic end — even more so than the already-firm Hakata-style noodles sometimes used for tonkotsu. Texturally, it leans closer to buckwheat soba. 

It’s not a dealbreaker, but I reckon ramen lovers will have their own views on this. 

The sakura yuzu broth ramen (S$12.90) is an interesting one. While the chicken toppings are the same as the signature dish, the broth in this dish has a zesty, citrusy brightness that’s even more forward compared to other yuzu ramens I like. (Afuri, for instance, tends to be more subtle and savoury.)

The sakura (cherry blossom) paste adds a fruity sweetness that’s pleasant enough, but when you mix it into the broth, it creates this reddish-pink cranberry colour that’s somewhat off-putting visually (at least for me). 

I found myself eating this faster so it wouldn’t soak into the noodles and chicken too much. 

There’s also the truffle umami tori paitan ramen (S$13.90). Again, it comes with the same chicken toppings and foundation, but this opens with a savoury-sweet chicken base, followed by the unmistakable woodsy aroma of truffle oil. 

I was worried the truffle would dominate, but the balance felt warm and measured, without tipping into excess.

I also tried the Singapore exclusive spicy chicken dan dan scallion noodles (S$12.90) and I have to say: I’m loving it. 

It’s a creamy, spicy adaptation of Sichuan dan dan mian, featuring a rich, nutty sauce with a proper spicy kick and that characteristic numbing feeling you get from Sichuan peppercorns. 

This dish is served with thicker noodles that feel more bouncy and resilient, and the noodles hold onto the sauce much like a tsukemen-style dish — I enjoyed these noodles much better than the ones in the soup-based ramen. 

The sides menu comprises yakitori sticks and some fried items, if you need some additional items to supplement your meal.

The yakitori platter (three for S$7.90) here is interesting, though it isn’t quite like the traditional, authentic ones you might expect. 

For one, the cuts — particularly for the thigh (momo) and breast (mune) — are far chunkier than what you’d find at a classic yakitori joint.

Like the meats in the ramen, the chicken is notably soft and evenly cooked throughout. While this is welcome, it also suggests it was sous vide and later torched (you can clearly see the scorch marks on the surface), rather than grilled over charcoal. 

Flavour-wise, it’s a sticky-sweet glaze rather than a soy-forward tare. If you’re looking for smoky, charcoal-kissed yakitori, you might find this interpretation too gentle. Each platter also comes with mentaiko mayo and some kimchi — they’re okay but nothing too special. 

Of the three skewers, I’d say the grilled chicken thigh (also available a la carte at S$2.90) is the best — the meat is very juicy and tender, and the sauce adds a deep umami. 

The grilled chicken meatball (also available a la carte at S$2.90) was rather disappointing — the minced meat is compactly packed and smoothened till consistently round, and tastes more like binder than actual minced chicken. It tasted a lot more processed than handmade, unfortunately. 

You might do well to order the skewers a la carte instead of opting for either of the platters, as both come with the meatball option. 

If you’re considering other sides, the fried chicken gyoza (S$3.90 for three pieces) is very good. They’re deep-fried but surprisingly not oily — you get that satisfying crisp without any grease on your lips. 

The filling of minced chicken and chives is simple but effective, and overall, they’re tasty and genuinely juicy.

And if you need something to wash it all down with, there are soft drinks and sake, but I say try the original calpis drink (S$3.90).

It’s similar to the complimentary slushie but without the lemon cordial, so it’s not as sweet and has more of that refreshing yoghurty, tangy flavour. It’s served with a huge chunk of ice that you stir in as it melts.

What it could improve on

While it’s tasty enough, Tori San’s karaage (S$6.90 for five pieces) looks and tastes a bit more like frozen karaage that’s been reheated.

It doesn’t have that delicate, crunchy coating when you bite in, that you’d find at proper Japanese izakayas. It’s perfectly acceptable, but doesn’t leave much of an impression.

This, and some of the things I mentioned earlier — the flat ramen noodle texture, and even the yakitori — feels like a missed opportunity. 

If they could source or make noodles with more bounce and chew, and change up the yakitori (using the sous vide method produces tender meat, sure, but it lacks the smoky char and textural complexity you get from traditional charcoal grilling), Tori San could be a step towards being a bit more “authentic”

That said, I want to be clear: Tori San does serve tasty, satisfying bowls at reasonable prices in a convenient location. 

It’s just not the authentic Japanese ramen experience they claim to offer, or one I had come to expect. 

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? Yes, though the cosy space can feel tight during peak hours. Come during off-peak times if you want a quieter meal.

Is a reservation necessary? Walk-ins only.

How to get there? Tori San is a minute’s walk away from Telok Ayer Station Exit A.

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.

For more places around Telok Ayer to eat at, check out the new Mamma Mia, a focaccia spot, or even All Hands Cafe, another new spot along the same stretch.