Rolls: This CBD handroll izakaya has premium lunch sets from just S$28

Singapore has welcomed a growing number of speciality handroll spots in recent years, with restaurants such as Toku Nori and Sushi Zushi raising the bar for freshly made handrolls. 

But while quality handrolls are no longer hard to come by, they often come with equally premium price tags. That’s where Rolls comes in.

Opposite the bustling Messina in Telok Ayer, the new speciality handroll and yakitori izakaya, which opened in July, serves premium handrolls, Japanese small plates, grilled skewers, and desserts, with weekday lunch sets starting from just S$28.

Whether you’re after a quick lunch in the CBD or a leisurely dinner with friends, Rolls delivers a premium handroll experience without breaking the bank.

Rolled right before your eyes

While Rolls offers both indoor and al fresco seating, the indoor counter is where the experience truly comes alive.

The warm, intimate space centres on an open handroll station, where diners get a front-row view of each order being made. Before rolling them up, the chefs first present the ingredients to you, before wrapping everything in crisp seaweed right before your eyes.

You’re encouraged to eat each handroll within 20 seconds of it being served, before the seaweed loses its crunch. It sounds strict, but one bite in and you’ll understand why.

Behind the counter, the kitchen runs with precision, each team member handling a defined role, from prep to plating, as dishes move smoothly between stations — a show of efficient coordination that’s as satisfying to watch as the food itself.

Premium handrolls without the premium price tag

If you’re visiting during lunch, the handroll sets offer one of the best value propositions on the menu. Choose between a set of four handrolls for S$28 or six handrolls for S$38, with options including:

• Salmon
• Tuna
• Hamachi (yellowtail)
• Engawa (fin muscle of the flounder)
• Amaebi (sweet shrimp)
• Shiromi (a type of white fish that rotates with the season)

If something else catches your eye, these are also available a la carte.

Among the handrolls available as part of the lunch set, we managed to try the truffle toro (fatty tuna) and engawa aburi (flame-seared flounder fin).

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The truffle toro was unmistakably decadent. The soft toro practically melted in my mouth, complemented by an earthy truffle aroma and crispy batter that balanced its richness. 

The engawa aburi was more delicate, with lightly torched flatfish fin and tempura flakes lending a subtle crispness.

If you’re after greater variety, the a la carte menu lets you mix and match from a wider selection of handrolls.

Among those we tried, our favourite was undoubtedly the tai yuzukosho (S$7.80), where Japanese seabream paired beautifully with the citrusy heat of yuzu kosho, while hanaho flower (the small, fragrant buds of the shiso plant), lime zest, and tosazu jelly (a jellied dressing of rice vinegar, soy sauce, mirin, and dashi) brought a refreshing acidity and umami to each bite.

The hotate foie gras (S$13.80) was the richest and most indulgent of the bunch, combining sweet, tender scallop with silky smooth foie gras mousse that lingered on the palate.

For bolder flavours, the unagi sansho (S$9.80) paired smoky grilled eel with fragrant sansho pepper for a gentle tongue-tingling sensation, while a light tempura coating added texture. 

For something cleaner, the mentaiko aka ebi (S$8.80) lets the plump, naturally sweet prawn take centrestage, with the mentaiko adding just a gentle savoury finish.

Don’t skip the starters and desserts

Before diving into the handrolls though, we’d recommend starting with a couple of Japanese small plates.

The sesame ponzu tai carpaccio (S$15) keeps things light and refreshing. Delicate slices of Japanese seabream are dressed in a bright sesame ponzu that adds just enough acidity to lift the fish without overpowering its natural sweetness.

Equally impressive was the century egg tofu with crab (S$8), which paired silky tofu with sweet crabmeat, creamy mayonnaise, tobiko, and a subtle hint of savoury century egg. For something from the grill, the torikawa (chicken skin, S$6) delivered satisfyingly crisp chicken skin, while the nankotsu (chicken cartilage, S$7) brought plenty of crunch and a pleasant chew.

To round off the meal, we tried a slice of its housemade pistachio Basque cheesecake (S$12) with yuzu sorbet (S$6,). The cheesecake is dense, smooth, and pleasantly nutty, while the bright, citrusy sorbet cuts through the richness with a refreshing burst of tartness. 

With accessible lunch sets, quality ingredients, and handrolls made right before your eyes, Rolls is an easy addition to your CBD lunch rotation for premium handrolls without the hefty price tag! We’d gladly roll back for more.

This was a hosted tasting.

For more ideas on what to eat in the CBD, read our stories on Rogs Race, which serves matcha and coffee by day and coffee and beers by night, and fast-casual Peranakan concept, Nyonya Next Door, serving sets from S$8.90.