Review: Torijin offers a clucking hearty and affordable taste of Japanese chicken classics

The backstory

It’s all in the name (“tori” means “chicken in Japanese, while “jin” means “person) — Torijin is the latest fast-casual Japanese concept by Les Amis Group that has opened just this month, offering a range of authentic chicken-focused dishes: donburi, ramen, and other chicken dishes. 

The menu is developed by Japanese chef Kawasaki Shimpei, who also leads the group’s other Japanese concepts, Tenjin and Sushi Jin.

There’s no lard or pork used at Torijin, but you won’t find a lack of flavours here, thanks to the (mostly) umami-packed broths and tender chicken chashu, made in-house with mature hens.

Our verdict

In short, Torijin is a love letter to the protein chicken with a very simple menu, and it works. 

Like the other fast-casual concepts by Les Amis Group, there’s a lot of attention to quality and execution, while still offering a reasonably affordable dining experience, with all mains going for below S$15 a bowl — a great value considering its prime Orchard location.

The experience is as much about the flavours as it is about the space you’re dining in — the atmosphere is elegant yet unpretentious, and the hospitality is great for a restaurant of this scale, a 40-seater to be exact. 

If you’re coming to Torijin to experience the wonders the Japanese have done with chicken, you won’t be disappointed. 

That being said, while some dishes are mostly there, a select few fall short of being memorable.

What it’s good for

Torijin’s ramen offerings are featured higher on the menu, but if you ask me, the tori karaage don (S$12.80) is the star here. I’d be worried if there wasn’t good karaage in a chicken-themed restaurant, but these clearly deliver, thankfully.

The large fried chicken pieces are not heavily battered so you get crispy outsides without a huge layer of flour. The skin is flavoured with a sort of savoury and almost tangy seasoning, giving way to succulent and juicy insides that are marinated to perfection. 

The warm, fluffy rice below holds its own, and is moist without being too sticky. Along with the chicken, you get plenty of spring onions, shredded cabbage, pickled ginger, and a light tare sauce that complements rather than takes away from the chicken. 

[related_article]

You can also order the karaage separately as a side for S$6.80 for three pieces. If you do, then you’ll have to get the incredible tartar mayonnaise (S$2) or regret it later. 

Torijin’s tartar mayonnaise is a Japanese-style tartar that’s less sour than the Western variant, so the minced up hard-boiled eggs and onions within the sauce really come forward here.

The staff will recommend the tori paitan ramen (from S$14.80), and for good reason: The paitan broth is equal parts rich and creamy, and unlike a lot of heavier pork-based tonkotsu broths, more silky than it is cloying. The chicken flavour shines through, but there’s also notes of mushroom, ginger and leek. 

The housemade chicken chashu pieces are tender and tasty, though I wish they were cut thicker for a more meaty bite. The firm and somewhat chewy ramen noodles are Hakata-style (which don’t get soggy as fast) and clings to the broth just fine.

There’s also a soft aji tamago, nori sheets and bamboo shoots — they’re not amazing, but they serve their purpose, especially at this price.

If you’ve never had spicy takana (S$2) with your ramen, this is your chance. The tangy, umami-rich, and slightly bitter pickled mustard greens are a vibrant garnish, adding a gentle heat and crunch to your meal.

The menu also includes chicken side dishes such as truffle corn, edamame, karaage (get this!) and a beautiful tori gyoza (S$4.80 for three pieces) stuffed with chicken, cabbage, and garlic chives. 

The bottom has a thin and crisp rice flour layer like what you’d get with winged gyoza and is charred just enough to give a smoky aroma. 

Take a bite and you’ll experience a juicy mouthful that includes finely minced meat, carrot, and cabbage — it’s simple and delicious, especially with the soy sauce vinegar and chili oil. The dumplings are on the smaller side, so don’t say we didn’t tell you first: You’ll probably want to order a whole plate for yourself.

Finish with its yuzu or matcha mochi (S$6 each) for a sweet treat. Torijin’s daifuku are on the pricier side but we’re told these are imported from Japan, which really shows. 

The skin is chewy and soft, thick enough to hold the fillings inside and offer some textural contrast while still letting the fillings shine. 

The matcha version has a bean paste inside that’s grainy and loose with a strong green tea flavour, while the yuzu version has a refreshing yuzu gel with small bits of citrus inside. Both feature a thin lining of cream inside.

For S$3, you get a choice of free-flow hot or cold houjicha to accompany your meal with. It’s lightly steeped but the roasted notes come through nicely. While it goes well with the food, you really can’t beat a cold beer for the oilier sides such as gyoza and karaage, which is where the Suntory Premium Malt (S$12) comes in. 

The silky foam rises quickly but also goes quickly (typical of commercial Japanese beers), leaving you with a pleasantly-rich lager with a very balanced taste. The distinct malty aroma is also so satisfying.

What it could improve on

A small let down was the shio yuzu ramen (S$13.80). While I appreciate the concept, the execution in itself was a let down. 

As a simple shio ramen, the chicken essence should have come through nicely, but the lack of seasoning in the already-light broth doesn’t do it much favours. 

It’s because of this lack of seasoning that the yuzu tastes somewhat out of place, and I didn’t quite get the harmonious intermingling of citrus and umami that I thought I’d get. 

We added some sweet corn (S$2) to the ramen and these were alright. 

Some small touches to improve this dish, among other minor tweaks, and Torijin will be a place truly worth travelling down for. 

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? It’s a small restaurant with limited seats, so not really.

Is a reservation necessary? Walk-ins only — you’ll do best to come before or after peak meal times. 

How to get there? Torijin is tucked away on the third floor of Shaw Centre, a three-minute walk from Orchard MRT Station Exit E.

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.

For the latest eats, read our stories on the new supper spot Shifu Food Court at Bras Basah Complex and authentic Hakka thunder tea Hakka Leipopo. Alternatively, check out the newest openings in Singapore here.

Enjoy up to 50% off when you dine with GrabFood Dine Out.

You can also book a ride to Shaw Centre to try Torijin in Singapore.