Review: Dumpling Darlings’ latest New Bahru outlet is a glow-up of the old CBD favourite

I first had Dumpling Darlings years ago at its Amoy Street outlet, back when it felt like a cheeky little CBD “secret” that everyone working in the area would talk about.

It quickly became an easy lunch — or the occasional dinner — fix, and has somehow managed to be consistently good every time, with its punchy dumplings and solid noodles that started from S$5 (back then, but probably not now in this economy). 

So it’s a nice feeling to see the concept — which has been around since 2018 — grow this much with the opening of its new flagship store at New Bahru, where it’s now clearly trying to be more than just a spot for a quick, reliable bowl of noodles.

The backstory

The new restaurant opened its doors back in May at New Bahru’s Factory Block, a relatively new block that houses other brands such as Sushiro, Kulon, a Fico pop-up, as well as lifestyle brands such as Beams and the Stacked Store.

Interestingly, the space isn’t actually much bigger than its Amoy Street or Circular Road outlets, which opened in 2018 and 2020 respectively — it probably sits about 20 people inside, along with several small tables outside for pet owners or those who prefer al fresco dining. 

What’s changed, though, is the feel of the space. It’s noticeably less cramped than the other outlets, and the decor has been given a contemporary facelift, with a touch of modern Japanese minimalism that gives it a calmer, more refined atmosphere.

You’ll find the same beloved noodles and dumplings on the menu, and even its popular S$19 lunch set that comes with four dumplings, one noodle, and a drink, can be enjoyed here. 

However, while the dumpling and noodle flavours are still the same-old classics, the biggest shift at its latest New Bahru outlet is the introduction of new small plates (from S$8) created in collaboration with the Michelin-recommended mod-Sin Mustard Seed restaurant.

There is also a new dessert item, some fresh cocktails and iced drinks, as well as makgeolli and soju by the bottle.

Our verdict

Judging by the usual clientele and location of New Bahru, this outlet appears more targeted at expats, tourists, and the hip weekend crowd rather than office workers looking for a quick lunch. 

The service here matches the upgrade, too — attentive, friendly, and helpful, with the bill brought to your table. 

The kitchen is as quick as I remember with the noodles arriving within five minutes of ordering, and dumplings and small plates just a few minutes behind.

The good news for longtime fans is that the fundamentals haven’t changed: The prices are still fair, and the noodles and dumplings are still reasonably priced and reliably good. 

The reason you should make the trip out to River Valley for Dumpling Darlings’ New Bahru outlet would be the new collaboration dishes. Do note that they’re only available from 5pm each day, though!

What it’s good for

Given that it’s been a while since my last visit to the concept, I had to reacquaint myself with the dumplings that made the brand’s name, of course. 

The dumpling party of 15 (S$28) is an easy way to sample its signature dumplings, as it features five out of its seven menu flavours: Original, smoked duck, fried pierogi, prawn & crab, and veggie mandu, with three pieces for each flavour.

The original with minced pork and napa cabbage is the dependable benchmark, juicy with a bright lift from some ginger and the accompanying vinaigrette. 

I still love the more inventive ones, though.

The Polish-inspired fried pierogi is crisp and golden with smoked bacon, truffle potato, caramelised onion, and cheddar; the smoky duck is elevated with leek and hoisin mustard; and the spicy prawn & crab dumplings redolent with assam aioli and chili rempah. 

Even the veggie mandu — which is essentially the Korean name for dumplings — holds its own with spinach and shiitake and a hit of gochujang and Korean pickles.

The signature XO prawn noodles (S$13) are also as good as I remember. The egg noodles have a pleasant bouncy, springy texture that works great with the savoury soy-tare sauce, tobiko (flying fish roe), and marinated egg. 

There’s a bit of work needed to peel the poached prawns, and though they’re fresh, they’re also a touch bland on their own so you’ll want to work on the prawns first and mix it in with the sauce before you slurp it all up.

The first of the new Mustard Seed small plates, the agedashi prawn tofu (S$10) is such a highlight. Prawn paste is shaped with tofu into little squares, coated with starch, deep-fried till golden, and topped with a touch of grated daikon.

The bite is savoury, sweet, and full of prawn flavour all at once, and it works nicely with the gently sweet and umami sauce it sits in. There’s a lot of flavour in this dish, without tipping into any overly-heavy cloyingness.

Dumpling Darlings’ gamja jeon (S$8) also catches my eye on the menu. 

I haven’t had the Korean dish since my last trip to the country almost nine years ago, but I still remember how unique it tasted — it had the substantial, shredded texture of rosti but with a starchy, chewy center. (I learnt that apparently the excess starch water from parboiling the potatoes are added back during cooking to achieve this texture.)

Dumpling Darlings’ version is fried till absolutely crisp and topped with shaved parmesan for a sharp, tangy cheesiness. 

The real star, though, is the seaweed-sesame sour cream that’s umami, slightly oceanic, and plain appetising. Order this, without a doubt.

However, if I had to really pick just one dish that best showcases the good of the Mustard Seed collaboration, it’s the nasi ulam (S$11). 

There’s a reason why the dish is so hard to find in Singapore — it’s notoriously labour- and skill-intensive to prepare properly with all that plucking, washing, chopping and fine-slicing required. 

Here you get chopped wingbeans, ginger flower, red onion, snap peas, brussels sprouts, and fried quinoa combined with an impossibly fragrant coconut rice that’s already been mixed with ulam herb pesto. 

The housemade sambal belacan gives a spicy umami kick, and a squeeze of calamansi brightens the whole thing considerably. 

If you’ve never had nasi ulam before, this version is as good an introduction as any: There’s texture in every bite — crunchy against soft, crisp against fragrant rice.

I didn’t get around to the other small plates: The pickled cherry tomato and watermelon, or the crudites with yuzu sesame hummus, but they both seem worth exploring on my next visit.

To end the meal, I noticed that the black sesame pudding with peanut candy (S$6) isn’t on the menu at the Amoy Street and Circular Road outlets yet, which only meant this was a must-order. 

The texture is somewhere between panna cotta and something slightly denser, served alongside candied peanuts with a toasty nuttingness and a sweet, caramelised finish to match the pudding’s milkiness. 

I mixed the peanuts through the pudding for the textural contrast, but you can also eat them separately.

There are some new iced drinks too, such as the Ceylon tea spritz with salted coconut foam (S$7).

It’s a pretty drink bearing the bold maltiness of Assam red tea mixed with the vanilla sweetness of fizzy cream soda, topped with a wonderful salted coconut foam that lingers on the tongue. 

Ther drink also comes with some coconut jelly at the bottom like bubble tea, which adds a bit of fun. 

The wider drinks list includes cocktails (from S$18) and highballs (from S$15) to craft beers on tap, natural wines, and even Korean makgeolli and soju by the bottle if you’re coming in the evening.

What it could improve on

Not much, honestly, but if there’s one thing to flag, it’s that I wish the Mustard Seed small plates were available during lunch as well, as it is arguably the most exciting and differentiated part of the New Bahru menu. 

It feels like a huge missed opportunity that daytime diners can’t experience them, even on the weekends. 

Otherwise, I’m very impressed by how much Dumpling Darlings has grown from its first little Amoy Street store to this, all while keeping its reliable, affordable, playful core that seems almost a steal for the quality it offers. 

I also heard from the staff that there might be more collaboration items (fret not, the Mustard Seed small plates are a permanent feature for now), as well as potentially new menus for kids and pets as well. 

If the quality of these initial collaboration plates are anything to go by, I can’t wait for the new additions to hit Dumpling Darlings New Bahru’s menu. 

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? Yes, though you might want to avoid lingering too long during peak hours to avoid the hogging seats.

Is a reservation necessary? Recommended on weekends, especially if you’re heading down during peak lunch or dinner hours.

How to get there? Dumpling Darlings is in the new Factory Block of New Bahru on the street level, accessible directly from Kim Yam Road.

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.

For more places around New Bahru to dine, check out our take on Artichoke’s newest menu items, and Bar Somma’s latest Happy Hour menu.