Michelin-selected Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa brings over 90 years of eel mastery

From heritage roots to Orchard Road

Executive director, Kojima Koji, who has close to 20 years of experience, leads the charge behind the binchotan charcoal grill.

The unagi here is of the Anguilla species, flown in weekly and hand-selected for size and quality to suit the kabayaki style — a traditional method that involves butterflying, deboning, and grilling it with tare sauce. The result: Crisp, caramelised skin and plush, fluffy meat.

What makes the unagi at Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa stand out isn’t just the fish, but the tare, too — a secret sauce recipe unchanged since its inception. 

The dishware also nods to tradition, with the bowls crafted in kilns dating back to the Edo period — a subtle, but elegant tribute to its heritage.

Unagi sets that hit the spot

As for the menu, prices are surprisingly accessible. A basic eel rice bowl with grilled half eel, pickles, and soup costs S$32. But the crowd favourite is undoubtedly the Ippon hitsumabushi set (one whole eel with dashi broth, S$50), featuring a whole sliced unagi over rice, served with condiments, unagi liver soup, and dashi broth for a DIY ochazuke-style finish.

This dish is where the fun begins. You start by tasting the unagi and rice on its own — a savoury, smoky combo, thanks to the generous tare.

Midway through, pour the broth to switch things up; it adds a comforting, savoury dimension that makes the meal feel extra satisfying.

Another standout: The unagi liver soup, an offbeat, but worthy side. We mistook the tiny liver for a bean at first — it’s that unassuming — but it’s clean-tasting, with just a hint of chew, and not overly gamey.

If you prefer your unagi whole, the kabayaki Ippon jyu set (one whole eel in a box, S$48) is a stunner. Served unsliced in an utsuwa, the portion is hefty — nearly forearm-length — and makes a solid choice for sharing.

It skips the dashi, but you won’t miss it. The tare-coated unagi is satisfying enough on its own.

For purists, there’s the Shirayaki Ippon unagi set (grilled eel without tare; only salted, S$48), where the unagi is grilled with salt only — no sauce. This version really lets the natural sweetness of the unagi shine, and the skin ends up even crispier.

It might feel too plain for some, but fans of subtle, clean flavours will appreciate its restraint.

While unagi is the main draw, there are other bites too — think sashimi from S$29, grilled eel liver (S$9), and umaki (grilled eel rolled in egg, S$12).

Worth swinging by

Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa impresses not just with technique and tradition, but also with taste and value. The portions are generous, the flavours bold and balanced, and the location — just off the Orchard Road shopping strip — makes it an easy go-to.

For lovers of grilled unagi, this one’s well worth making a detour (or dinner plan) for.

This was an invited tasting.

For more ideas on what to eat, read our stories on Singapore restaurants featured in Black Pearl Restaurant Guide 2025, and our favourite picks for vegan food in Singapore.

You can book a table at Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa via Chope, then a ride to the restaurant at Shaw Centre.