Paul cafe at Paragon reopens as Maison Paul bistro, with a new and exclusive menu

Orchard Road rarely does slow. Between the shopping bags and the lunch-hour dash, sitting down to a long, unhurried French meal feels like a small act of rebellion, which is precisely the pitch at Maison Paul.

The French bakery chain’s first maison concept in Singapore (and the world!) now occupies its former cafe space on the second floor of Paragon.

Rebranded for a proper sit-down

If you’ve grabbed a croissant from Paul Paragon anytime in the past decade, you’ll barely recognise the place.

The familiar cafe has been swapped for a full-blown bistro in red and white: Striped, scalloped chairs, crimson banquettes, marble counters, and arched mirrors, with 80 seats on available to walk-in guests only.

While other Paul outlets are built around breads, viennoiseries, and light cafe fare, Maison Paul instead runs a dine-in menu found only at this address, from beef bourguignon and seafood bouillabaisse to escargots bubbling in pesto butter.

There’s an exclusive patisserie line, too, with Paris-Brests and pastries you won’t find at other outlets, plus a round of Perrier mocktails. The croissants, rest assured, are staying put.

After all, they’ve been part of the deal since 1889, when Paul was founded as a family bakery in Croix, a small town in northern France. More than 130 years on, it’s still family-owned, though its signature black shopfronts now appear in over 50 countries.

Singapore got its first taste in 2012 with an outlet at Ngee Ann City, and the brand has since spread across the island, from CBD office towers to Changi Airport, with Paragon joining the fold in 2014.

From cafe pit-stop to leisurely lunches

Paragon regulars will know the old Paul well, which made us all the more curious to see what the new kitchen could do. First up was the truffle mushroom soup (S$15.90), and it set the tone nicely.

It’s thick and velvety, but not blitzed completely smooth: Tiny bits of mushroom still float through it, which is exactly how we like ours. The truffle aroma is potent and present, making this a comforting way to warm up the belly before the mains arrive.

The escargots a la bourguignonne (S$17.90) are about as classic a French opener as it gets, so it makes sense to find them on Maison Paul’s menu. Six snails arrive piping hot and still bubbling, slathered in pesto butter and melted emmental cheese, a twist on the traditional garlic-and-parsley butter.

It’s very herbaceous, and the snail meat is plump with a satisfying chew. If you’re still on the fence about snails (and we know there are folks out there), this is the gentlest possible introduction. Between the butter and the cheese, this is quite possibly the most delicious way to start enjoying snails.

The beef bourguignon (S$42.90) might make you do a double take at the price, but the portion comfortably feeds two. Burgundy’s most famous braise arrives as slow-braised beef chuck over mashed potatoes, with charred broccolini, baby rainbow carrots, and cherry tomatoes alongside.

The meat pulls apart so easily that using a knife is purely ceremonial. It did turn a little dry towards the centre of the chuck, which was a slight letdown, but thankfully the dish is generously sauced, with enough rich gravy to slap onto every bite.

Then there’s the seafood bouillabaisse (S$44.90), Maison Paul’s take on the Provencal fisherman’s stew, with prawns, fish, and scallops, plus sourdough slices and saffron aioli on the side.

The saffron hits you first, with an aroma that instantly works up an appetite. The broth is mildly viscous, so the sourdough mops it up with ease. The seafood is on the sparse side, but everything is well-cooked: The prawns had a good snap, the fish was tender and flaky, and the scallops were soft and delicate.

This version also leans a touch sweeter than other bouillabaisses we’ve had, so it might not win everyone over at first sip. Give it a few spoonfuls, though, and it has a way of growing on you.

Over at the patisserie counter, where the Maison-exclusive line lives, the pecan tartlet (S$9.90) had us pretty stoked, since pecan tarts aren’t exactly a common sight on local pastry shelves.

Caramelised pecans sit on buttery pate sucree, the sweetened shortcrust French bakers use for tarts, for that satisfying, crumbly bite.

The pistachio Paris-Brest (S$9.90) is a little messy to eat, but hey, the messier the yummier, right? The wheel-shaped choux pastry has a history dating back to 1910 to mark the Paris-Brest-Paris cycling race, hence the bicycle-wheel silhouette.

This one is layered with nutty pistachio praline and diplomat cream, then finished with candied almond slices and crushed pistachios. It’s far more decadent than it looks. Pair it with one of Maison Paul’s coffees and your afternoon tea break is sorted.

To drink, Maison Paul has teamed up with Perrier on a line of sparkling mocktails. The green apple mojito (S$9.90) is fizzy and sweet-sour with a minty lift, a proper thirst-quencher that doubles as a palate cleanser between bites.

And then there’s the lime & ginger mule (S$9.90), the punchier of the two drinks we had. The lime’s tang and the ginger’s heat make it one for fans of sour, big flavours. We enjoyed it most after the meal, when we wanted something to wash everything down and settle the stomach.

A laidback lunch on a fast street

Overall, Maison Paul plays it familiar, and that’s largely the point. What the refresh gives a well-known name is a reason to hang around a little longer: A menu you can’t get at the other outlets and pastries worth the detour.

There are a few rough edges, but nothing a basket of sourdough and a Paris-Brest can’t smooth over. Just note that it’s walk-in only, so time your visit outside the weekend lunch crush. On a stretch of Orchard Road built for speed, this space of reprieve in Paragon is well worth sitting down for.

This was a hosted tasting.

For more ideas on what to eat, check out Four Seasons Hotel Singapore’s new daytime Garden Cafe menu, and our 12 recommended stalls to try at Holland Village Market & Food Centre.