Fatt Choy Eating House at Haji Lane dishes out elevated local comforts, including shiok laksa and atas satay

If you’re someone who enjoys indulging in elevated takes on beloved local flavours in a more snazzy environment, you’d probably have heard of now-defunct The Kongsee.

The Gemmill Lane hideout had gotten some buzz over its mod-Sin (modern Singaporean) cuisine, created in tandem with chef-partner Willin Low. He has been heralded by many as the godfather of mod-Sin.

Unfortunately, it closed in Sep 2023 after two years. But here’s some good news for fans who are keeping an eye out for its reopening: It’s time to visit the new Fatt Choy Eating House.

Located in the bustling Haji Lane, Fatt Choy Eating House takes over the space right across popular craft beer stalwart Good Luck Beerhouse.

It’s a concept by the same masterminds behind Good Luck, who also have had a hand in the running of The Kongsee.

While it’s not a direct sequel to the cult-favourite concept, Fatt Choy Eating House can be seen as a spiritual successor of sorts, especially since you can find certain The Kongsee crowd favourites back on its menu.

Creature comforts

Missing The Kongsee’s crab laksa? Fatt Choy Eating House cooks up a modified original Roxy laksa (S$15) that’s largely similar in recipe, but comes with two thick tiger prawns instead.

Based on the legendary Janggut Laksa in Katong, the key ingredient is the satisfying broth — lush with coconut fragrance and loaded with spice richness, while also packing a good bit of heat for those who enjoy their spice. 

If you’re not one for noodles, there’s also a carb alternative in the decadent pork lard fried rice (S$12), where oodles of lard are hidden inside a mound of velvety and sticky Taiwanese pearl rice — simple but addictive.

Other elevated classics include their “atas” satays that Fatt Choy Eating House has jazzed up with more premium meat, available either as iberico satay (from S$15 for three) or wagyu satay (from S$16 for three). 

The higher-quality meat means more luscious and tender satays, but the secret is in the sauce. 

Its housemade robust Javanese peanut sauce pairs perfectly with the smoky meat and the vibrant twang of pineapple salsa — only used in the iberico satay, though — helps enliven the entire profile.

Although the menu mostly focuses on elevated local flavours, Fatt Choy Eating House also features other common creature comforts found in our hawker centres.

One good example is the Sichuan dumpling (S$8), where three silky dumplings — plump with a pork-and-chive filling — are doused in a striking scarlet mala sauce. 

Homey and brings on the heat, just like these popular dumplings ought to.

Curious creations

Besides more straightforward improvements, Fatt Choy Eating House also provides a slew of interesting creations that incorporate local flavours.

That even extends to the libations, such as the deep and punchy buah keluak tropical stout brewed by That Singapore Beer Project, a local craft beer brand and sibling company to Fatt Choy.

There are also more bold fusion ideas such as the fried silken tofu and omelette with gochujang (S$12), a dish that liberally reinterprets hotplate tofu and marries Korean and local flavours.

It’s not served on the hotplate but the special gochujang sauce is made to be rich and tangy, meant to resemble the sauce used in the zi char classic. 

Even then, the most radical idea here has to come in the form of the kaya ice cream in pita (S$10), the only dessert on Fatt Choy Eating House’s menu.

Unlike your usual ice cream sandwiches, this one-of-a-kind snack is made by stuffing kaya ice cream into fluffy pita bread.

It’s not quite like your usual desserts — this is more fragrant and savoury with a splash of coconut sweetness and a touch of shio kombu umami in the background.

Definitely an interesting way to end a meal full of shiok elevated local flavours.

For more ideas on what to eat, read our stories on Scaled by Ah Hua Kelong’s seafood dishes with unique local twists and our superguide on 30 wanton mees in Singapore that we tried and rated.

Fatt Choy Eating House is on the GrabFood delivery service and offers free delivery (up to S$3 off) with GrabUnlimited. 

Do explore the new GrabFood Dine-in service for awesome deals.

You can also book a ride to Fatt Choy Eating House.