Iconic Japanese restaurant Fat Cow launches S$88 13-course sushi omakase, free-flow sake option at S$38

Fat Cow is probably one of the most iconic Japanese restaurants in Singapore — the beloved wagyu specialist opened in 2011 and has become a go-to spot for special occasions.

However, most think of Fat Cow as the restaurant you go to, when hankering for a luxurious wagyu beef feast. Few would have recommended it as a spot for sushi omakase.

That’s a viewpoint that head chef Shingo Iijima is looking to change.

Fat Cow’s signature wagyu beef will obviously remain a mainstay, but chef Shingo, who has an abundance of experience in kappo-style dining, has been eyeing an opportunity to spotlight sushi at the restaurant.

In line with that vision, Fat Cow has launched a new omakase menu in March focused mostly on sushi.

The shiki omakase (meaning the “four seasons” in Japanese, S$88 at both lunch and dinner) will feature ingredients based on the seasons and will pamper diners with a whopping 13 courses.

There aren’t many omakases at such affordable prices, especially with restaurants of Fat Cow’s stature — it’s definitely very attractive!

Remarkable quality for the price

If you think that the shiki omakase is probably just another run-of-the-mill omakase, think again — not only does Fat Cow take care to provide the freshest produce, chef Shingo also finds ways to elevate the ingredients.

Still, simplicity is undoubtedly king when it comes to sushi, and most of the fish is embellished with tasteful little touches.

It all starts with hirame (olive flounder) that’s topped with sea salt and sudachi citrus, followed by shima aji (striped horse mackerel) finished with a dollop of sweet and gracefully acidic onion sauce.

The most enthralling of these touches at Fat Cow probably comes in the form of the rich tamari soy sauce slathered all over the huge hotate (scallop).

For this piece, Fat Cow indulges diners with silky, luscious and plump scallop, marinated in the soy sauce that imbues it with intense umami depth — simple, but sublime.

Another equally fascinating choice by chef Shingo is the slice of karasumi (mullet roe) that blankets the kuruma ebi (tiger prawn).

First, Okinawan tiger prawn is steamed with sake, then shaped into a nigiri. When that’s ready, a thin piece of karasumi is delicately sliced off and placed atop the prawn.

By itself, the prawn is crunchy and juicy, but the sharp briny flavours of the karasumi further accentuate the crustacean’s natural flavours.

Seafood focus with a wagyu cameo

Don’t worry, chef Shingo hasn’t forgotten about the restaurant’s bread and butter — wagyu. Beef lovers will be pleased to know that the savouries end with a handroll stuffed full with Kagoshima Akune gold A5 wagyu and Hokkaido uni.

With rich, tender slices of wagyu and creamy, briny uni, this one hits you with a wave after wave of umami. A very decadent end of the meal.

However, if you’re a sushi fan, then you might be more impressed with the penultimate savoury dish — a simple, but heavenly otoro (fatty tuna).

Unlike your usual otoro sushi, Fat Cow’s rendition involves resting the fatty tuna atop a heated Himalayan salt block, which results in a heady kiss of fragrance and salinity.

The otoro readily melts in the mouth, while the salt gracefully slices through the tuna’s mix of robust flavours and fattiness. One of the best pieces of otoro sushi we’ve had.

Once you’re fed and satisfied, you can then prepare your stomach for the dessert. 

Usually, Fat Cow’s shiki omakase rounds off the meal with the daily selection of ice cream. However, we strongly recommend swapping it out with the Japanese shaved ice (S$12 top-up).

The shaved ice is beautifully sheer and delicate, melting gently on the tongue, while the hojicha syrup adds a nice toastiness to the milky ice. On top of that, the soymilk mochi is wonderfully pillowy and tastes like jazzed-up tauhuey!

Great sushi craftsmanship aside, Fat Cow’s shiki omakase also has another highlight — its free-flow sake and beer option.

For S$38, diners get to enjoy the meal with their choice of Kiku-Masamune kimoto honjyozo josen, Ozeki gin-kan silver futsu-shu or Sapporo beer.

The first is a dry and clean sake, while the second is a sweeter, more floral style that can be very versatile — and the sake can be enjoyed either hot or cold, too, depending on your preference!

The price is pretty compelling, since a single carafe of quality sake will probably be in the same price range.

For just S$88 for the omakase — and S$38 for free-flow sake — Fat Cow’s shiki omakase might be one of the best value propositions in a market saturated with a staggering slew of choices. 

If there’s one omakase worth spending your coin on, this might be it.

This was an invited tasting.

For more ideas on what to eat, read our stories on popular modern kopi stall Coffee Break’s newest outlet and restaurants serving the tastiest vegan food in Singapore.

Book a table at Fat Cow via Chope, then book a ride there to treat yourself to the new S$88 shiki omakase!