Birds of a Feather: Amoy’s chic modern Sichuan restaurant updates menu with even more fusion touches

“Do you like Birds of a Feather?” is a phrase that has drastically different meanings, depending on who it’s posed to.

The younger crowd would probably involuntarily start crooning Billie Eilish’s 2024 viral hit, whereas some more experienced foodies might be inclined to reply: “Oh, the Sichuan restaurant at Amoy Street, right?”

If you belong to the latter group, you’d probably know Birds of a Feather is a bona fide stalwart in the restaurant scene.

The modern Sichuan outfit was opened way back in 2016 and has weathered through the changing F&B landscape and the turmoil of the Covid-19 pandemic at its long-time Amoy Street home.

It was set up in a time when mala was still a rising intrigue amongst Singaporeans, and Hai Di Lao and Ri Ri Hong were the extent of the layperson’s knowledge of Sichuan cuisine. 

Back then, Birds of a Feather was a breath of fresh air, as it introduced ingenious twists on Western classics, such as its signature jajiangmian-inspired oriental bolognaise. 

Eight years on, the trailblazer is still going strong at 115 Amoy Street, now a voguish space characterised by rustic wooden surfaces, accented by lush plant fixtures and striking cloud-shaped lamps, paying homage to the resplendent natural vistas of Chengdu.

In that time, the team behind the restaurant had also gone on to set up The Foreign Project Group, expanding its portfolio with popular concepts such as Halcyon & Crane and Sichuan Alley.

Not to be outdone by its sibling concepts, Birds of a Feather has also come up with a refreshed menu and hopes to reinvent itself to better suit its evolving customer base.

To that purpose, it has unveiled a new a la carte selection that includes a diverse range of new dishes, all guided by head chef Eugene See’s patented ethos of marrying Western and Sichuan flavours.

The dishes are also supported by a slew of tipples, ranging from creatively concocted house cocktails to a myriad of wines produced in China (or as Sun Ho calls it, China Wine).

At the same time, there is also the choice of an An Yi sharing menu (安逸, meaning “comfort and relaxation”, S$103 per diner for a minimum of two) for guests who wish to explore all of the new menu’s greatest hits.

The milder side of Sichuan

Subconsciously, most people think of Sichuan cuisine as dominated by masochistically potent spice or rambunctious flavours — that stereotype is something chef Eugene wishes to avoid. He aims for balance in his menu, with a slew of less heavy-handed flavours.

That extends to dishes such as the ceviche (S$21), Birds of a Feather’s interesting spin on the ubiquitous Peruvian dish. 

Instead of traditional tiger’s milk (a citrusy marinade used to “cook” the raw fish in ceviche), this dish incorporates vine pepper oil and Sichuan pickled ginger to give it a bit of Chinese flair.

The result is a vibrant, refreshing dish with extra bite to it, as the pickle acidity and pepper heat add an additional dimension to the fish, while also being enriched by the fragrance of Chinese cooking wine.

Another lighter-profiled favourite was the pasta-dumpling hybrid oriental duck consomme (S$28), which features two duck “ravioli” that resemble Chinese dumplings.

The ravioli are stuffed plump with roasted duck meat, chicken, peppercorns, celtuce ginger, and coriander and are finished with chicken-stock-braised daikon and a tableside pouring of Bird of a Feather’s painstakingly prepared duck consomme.

Somewhat reminiscent of broth-based Italian pasta dishes (a la tortellini en brodo), this is a comforting dish with a pleasant mix of clean and crisp broth, silky dumplings and plush daikon. 

Cocktails are also another aspect where Birds of a Feather’s lighter touch comes to attention, with some exceedingly easy-to-drink concoctions such as the Kyoho grape-forward Mexican Geisha (S$24).

For something really unique though, the baijiu cocktails are something to consider, with options of One Night in Chengdu and Tian Mi Mi available with a choice of lang jiu liquor (S$35) or moutai wine (S$59).

As we know, moutai is a luxury, so it’s a good chance to try it without shelling out big bucks for a bottle.

The staff strongly recommend the One Night in Chengdu, which is a pleasantly fruity and balanced blend of gin, yuzu, peach, and cucumber cordial where the moutai’s complex profile is seamlessly incorporated. 

Those looking to unwind more affordably can also come by between 12pm to 7pm — Birds of a Feather’s has a one-for-one Happy Hour deal on beers (S$17), wines (from S$15) and select classic cocktails (S$28) including negronis and espresso martinis.

Birds of a Feather’s robust flavours

That said, obviously Birds of a Feather would have plenty of dishes laden with heavy flavours. In fact, one dish embodies that perfectly.

We’re talking about the restaurant’s ultra classic and signature rendition of the la zi ji: Find the Chicken in the Chillies (S$19). Most would recommend this as a must-order for all first-timers. 

This one uses deboned chicken thigh for extra juiciness and the ensemble of Zi Dan Tou (bullet head) dried chillies, Sichuan peppercorns and deep-fried garlic ensures an exuberantly umami and gratifyingly numbing party in the mouth.

It’s not as adventurous as the rest, but it showcases the restaurant’s strong understanding of the most classic Sichuan flavours.

On the other end of the spectrum is the loup de mer (S$98) — a dish featuring a whole seabass weighing 600g to 700g — that’s much more European in scope.

The seabass is seasoned with a powdered Sichuan spice medley and then pan-seared scale-side down, giving it the most fabulous airy and crackling texture on the outside, while staying succulent and soft on the inside.

In classic Birds of a Feather fashion, the restaurant then jazzes it up with a one-of-a-kind take on the beurre blanc (a classic French sauce) that’s sumptuously buttery and enlivened with a spark of acidity and spice.

Capping it all off is a hefty homestyle braised pork belly (S$63, with an option to add on 5g shaved truffle at seasonal prices) that’s Birds of a Feather’s take on local claypot rice.

The dish comes in layers: Chunky braised pork belly cubes perched up top, fried kale and tea tree mushrooms in the middle, then fragrant garlic fried rice as the foundation.

It’s a dish of superb textures as the crunchy kale, crusty rice and luscious pork belly are easily going to charm any fans of claypot rice or lu rou fan.

So there you have it: Strong punchy flavours, elegant and nuanced profiles, easy-to-drink cocktails and a melange of interesting east-meets-west techniques. 

It’s been eight years but it seems like Birds of a Feather might still have many more years in it. Those looking for something different from your usual Sichuan cuisine and find yourself in Telok Ayer, pop by.

This was a hosted tasting.

For more ideas on what to eat, read our stories on the popular new Atipico Room 15 at New Bahru and Willin Low’s new fusion pasta bar.

You can make a reservation at Birds of a Feather via Chope.

Book a ride to try creative Sichuan fusion dishes.