Review: Steak Sudaku serves up affordable A5 Omi wagyu with plenty of sizzle

The backstory

Steak Sudaku is the first international venture from the General Ōmi-Gyu Trading Company, which runs 53 wagyu-focused restaurants across Japan. Their whole model is built on Shiga Prefecture’s legendary Omi beef, prized for its clean umami flavour and rich marbling that subsequently “melts in your mouth”.

The menu is kept deliberately small and simple, with the main offerings being thick-cut Omi beef steaks, diced steak, and wagyu hamburgs. (The cheapest steak here is S$29.80.) 

There’s rice, a cabbage and corn salad, a bowl of beefy soup, and canned drinks and beers if you’re thirsty. A second outlet at Beach Road is already up and running as of this week, with another two at Telok Ayer and Tanjong Pagar on the way — according to the brand’s Instagram accounts.

Our verdict

Steak Sudaku isn’t an upscale wagyu experience with 12-course menus and dramatic showmanship. Instead, the restaurant is built for speed and volume.

The Killiney Road space looks more like a casual family diner, than a wagyu house — once you’re seated at any available table and upon ordering through a QR code, your beef comes still searing hot on a black cow-shaped hot plate in about six- to seven-minutes.

It’s not a life-changing wagyu experience, but it’s well worth the price with the cheapest steak here (a regular A5 Omi beef steak) going for S$29.80. 

Service is brisk, but warm enough for you to feel comfortable. It feels authentic, and it’s worth noting that every single staff member (as far as I could tell) here is Japanese.

What it’s good for

I ordered the A5 lean Omi beef steak (S$34.80 for 150g), which is actually a step up from the regular steak at S$5 more. A quick glance at the menu shows that this has a tad more marbling than the standard cut, enough to remind me that this is still premium beef — likely a sirloin or striploin.

At an A5 grade, you still get all the hallmarks of wagyu: A soft nuttiness and beefy umami flavour, with subtle fattiness. While this was ordered medium rare, the hot plate continues to cook the steak after being served, so be sure to slice your steak up and put it aside if you don’t want it too done.

If you want the absolute natural flavour of wagyu, the savoury brown sauce they squeeze on top of the steak might feel unnecessary. What’s good is that the staff asks first, while serving your plate.

Personally, I feel it adds an extra bit of flavour to the steak that’s very much appreciated, and also gives umami to the accompanying potato wedges and vegetables — the standard medley of carrots, peas, and corn. 

In comparison, the A5 marbled Omi beef steak (S$39.80 for 150g), from the ribeye, is gloriously fatty. The first few bites are luxurious, and almost have the consistency of warm foie gras. It’s the most buttery of the lot — and while I’ve always preferred the leaner and beefier cuts (especially when it comes to wagyu), this is rich, tender, and satisfying without being over the top. For under S$40, it’s hard to argue.

A special shout out to the gravy boat of grated daikon dressing that’s served with each steak. Pour as much (or as little) as you want — this tangy and savoury sauce goes brilliantly with the beef.

Other condiments include a black peppercorn and Himalayan pink salt grinder, a salty garlic sauce for the beef, as well as some sesame sauce and pickled radish to go with the rice, soup and salad set.

For S$7, you get a bowl of firm Japanese rice, a basic — but fresh — shredded cabbage and corn salad, and most excitingly, a umami-rich beef soup. It’s a little salty and a little oily, but warm and satisfying with a few pieces of stewed Omi beef within. None of these are particularly fancy, but I’m not expecting that at a place like this.

Don’t be so quick to dismiss the A5 Omi beef hamburg steak (S$24.80 for 150g), which is made with 100% Omi beef. Instead of the usual minced meat patty, here they slice and pound the beef by hand, then cook it in two stages: A hard sear for the crust, followed by a gentle steam to lock in juiciness. 

It’s moist and tender without being mushy, with a deep beefiness in each bite. I’m not the biggest fan of the Chaliapin-style sauce (a reduction of red wine and soy sauce) that’s squirted on top, as it obscures the natural flavours of the wagyu, but there’s an option to skip it.

There are no desserts here, but each diner at our table received a complimentary scoop of yuzu sorbet. It’s simple enough, but does the job of cleansing the palate, and I appreciate that there are small bits of yuzu rind for texture and that extra bit of zestiness.

What it could improve on

Can we say something about the prices of the canned drinks here? S$5 each for something like a Coke or green tea is just exorbitant. Plus points for having the delicious Suntory C.C lemon drink (also S$5), which is a fizzy and citrusy soda that cuts through the fatty wagyu. But served from a can without even a cup of ice? You’re better off going for a bottle of Sapporo beer (S$10) or a whisky highball (S$15).

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? Yes, though note that the tables are packed rather closely.

Is a reservation necessary? Walk-ins only.

How to get there? Steak Sudaku is a six-minute walk away from Somerset MRT Station Exit A.

Nearest MRT: Somerset

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.

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You can also book a ride to Steak Sudaku at Killiney Road.