Review: Sakedokoro Eizaburo is the rowdy, wallet-friendly izakaya we all need

Is it me or are izakayas having their moment? My appreciation for these Japanese-style pubs has deepened over the years, mostly because the rowdy atmosphere helps me take my mind off work (like that last email I forgot to send).

Then there’s the frosty beers, the charcoal-grilled skewers, and sake-fuelled conversations with the buddies.

Many izakayas in Singapore, especially the ones favoured by Japanese expats inside a certain mall in Orchard, tend to be quite expensive. 

However, there might be days when you’re looking for somewhere where you can drink copiously without breaking the bank.

That’s where places such as the new Sakedokoro Eizaburo at Fortune Centre come in — this is one of those spots which is really trying to put affordability at its core.

The backstory

Behind Sakedokoro Eizaburo is the Shunsui Group, the folks responsible for the six-time Michelin Plate-awarded Shunsui on Hongkong Street, yakitori joint Kemuri at Cuppage Plaza, and Sushi Kyuu at Orchard Plaza. 

The group’s credentials are solid, and the concept of Sakedokoro Eizaburo follows suit, leaning strongly into the charm of Japan’s shitamachis — traditional working-class neighbourhoods, where the restaurants are always casual and full of warm hospitality.

Sakedokoro Eizaburo can feel fairly different depending on whether you head down during lunch or dinner. 

For lunch, it serves more than 10 types of rice options, ranging from kaisendon, curry rice, to special donburis with toppings such as karaage and unagi. 

If you had to pick a time to head down, it’s only at night though that you can experience Sakedokoro Eizaburo at its best as an izakaya.

It does have some rules if you do decide to come in the evening, though — a list of so-called “9 commandments” apply during dinner service.

For example, these rules stipulate that each diner has to order at least two (alcoholic or non-alcoholic) drinks to “keep the spirit alive”. There’s also a 90-minute dining limit during peak hours. 

Our verdict

The highballs are fizzy, the yakitori is smoky, and the vibes are rowdy – just how I like it. There are a good amount of hits at this new izakaya, such as the crispy crab cream croquette, wagyu hanger steak, and scallop carpaccio. 

While the items do add up in price and the portions are relatively small, Sakedokoro Eizaburo (henceforth referred to as Eizaburo) is still a genuinely affordable izakaya that doesn’t skimp on quality. Think small plates from S$2.90, and generously-portioned rice bowls at lunchtime for just S$7.90.

Just don’t come expecting luxury or a quiet dinner alone. 

If you’re a teetotaler, the two-drink minimum is kind of a dealbreaker, unless you’re prepared to fork out S$10 for green tea. But then again, if you don’t drink, an izakaya probably wouldn’t be your first choice, anyway. 

What it’s good for

It is an izakaya, afterall, so right off the bat, we knew we wanted to order a smattering of dishes to have our drinks to go with.

We decided to start things off with its sashimi, which is said to be sweet and fresh-tasting as it’s freshly flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu Market weekly. 

There are a few variations here, but the pretty Hearty sashimi platter (S$24.90) is a simple selection with sizeable slices of salmon, seared tuna, scallop, octopus sea bream, and interestingly, some mackerel sushi. 

Everything sits on a bed of seaweed and shiso leaves with edible flower garnish and a dollop of wasabi. It’s quite a steal at this price point, especially given the quality.

The grill at Eizaburo is prominent and inviting, and here, you can choose from a pretty varied selection of yakitori cuts, or you could go for today’s omakase 5 Yakitori (S$12.90) for the chef’s choice. 

I opted for the latter and got a variety of cuts: The silky thigh (S$3.90 if ordered a la carte), dipped in tare (Japanese dipping sauce), is sweet and full of umami, and the breast (S$2.90) is soft and tender, with dollops of yuzu kosho on top for a burst of citrus and spice. 

Heart (S$2.90) and gizzard (S$2.90) keep things interesting with the flavour of offal, and I find the hearts (bouncy with a mild chew) especially tasty. 

The tsukune (S$3.90), though, leaves much to be desired with its bland taste and lacklustre texture — perhaps adding in bits of chicken cartilage into the mince, like many other yakitori spots might help.

The potato salad (S$7.90) is a creamy, umami-packed twist on a classic, topped with ikura to add briny pops of flavour that cut through the richness, making it really addictive. It’s a real treat, especially with beer.

While beef hanger steaks don’t often look as impressive as a thick ribeye, Eizaburo’s wagyu hanger steak (S$9.80) is beautifully tender thanks the wagyu’s marbling — you still get that sort of melt-in-your-mouth texture.

The onion miso sauce is also deeply savoury, the garlic chips add crunch, and the boiled cabbage and pickles on the side keep things balanced.

Is it really an izakaya without fried chicken? Eizaburo’s unassuming eggy chicken nanban (S$5.90) does the dish justice with its rendition, featuring crunchy, juicy, well-seasoned fried chicken chunks covered with an egg mayo-onion sauce.

All in, it’s a foolproof crowd-pleasing snack that’s cheap for what it is. There’s quite a bit of batter to get through, but it’s the crispiness that makes this a winning bite.

If you’re in need of something fried, creamy, and deeply satisfying, go for the crispy crab cream croquette (S$4.90), a classic Japanese croquette sitting on a pool of tonkatsu sauce. 

It’s rich but not overwhelmingly, striking a great balance between crispy and creamy, and the crab flavour is present without being too overpowering.

Some people like foie gras, I like ankimo (S$7.90), which is also sometimes called the “foie gras of the sea”. The ankimo or monkfish liver is an umami bomb when done right.

You can’t really expect top-tier ankimo for this price, but Eizaburo’s version, served with ponzu sauce, has a good balance of richness and tang, and is also very creamy and tender.

While scallop wasabi carpaccio (S$12.90) isn’t something you’ll see often in izakayas, when you’ve good quality seafood, you flaunt them, like what Eizaburo does with this carpaccio. 

The scallops are delicate and sweet with a hint of the ocean’s saltiness, complemented by a tangy chilli wasabi relish and cherry tomatoes. It’s a lot of umami on one plate, but wholeheartedly welcomed by myself and my dining companions. 

If you’ve tried those Japanese dried squid that’s commonly sold in packets, you’ll know they’re full of intensified umami flavour. 

Eizaburo’s dried squid tempura (S$6.90) takes those up a notch and deep-frying them tempura style, making it the ultimate bar snack that’s chewy and crispy both at once, with a dollop of Japanese mayo and togarashi powder to spice things up.

Half the fun of dining in an izakaya is passing plates around the table while the drinks kick in. You could get a glass of junmai daiginjo sake for S$8.90 or a whole bottle from S$84, which is pretty reasonable, but the highballs are even better value starting from S$6.90. 

Touted as “ultra fizzy”, they are dangerously easy to drink with a level of carbonation that makes your tongue tingle. 

The Kaku highball (S$8.90) and green tea highball (S$6.90) are just as refreshing as their names suggest, but it’s the baisu sour (S$6.90), a retro plum and shochu that’s more interesting with its sweet and tangy flavours.

What it could improve on

Sakedokoro Eizaburo is a diner for efficiency, so don’t expect particularly warm or attentive service, personal recommendations or much conversation. 

While most of the dishes we ordered came within 10 to 15 minutes of ordering, there were also a couple of slips when some dishes were forgotten. 

It’s not a big deal for me, but some people might mind the cutlery situation — takeaway-style chopsticks and plastic (branded) cups, especially considering the two-drink minimum. I can’t imagine beer in a flimsy plastic cup tasting better than one in a proper, ice-cold mug.

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? The restaurant can get a bit rowdy after customers get a few drinks in.

Is a reservation necessary? Good to have during dinner hours.

How to get there? Sakedokoro Eizaburo is on the third floor of Fortune Centre, a 6-minute walk from nearby MRT stations.

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.

For the latest food news, check out new hotpot concept Bon Broth, at the nearby Raffles City Shopping Centre, or McDonald’s latest introduction, curry McNuggets. 

Enjoy up to 50% off when you dine with GrabFood Dine Out. 

You can also book a ride to Sakedokoro Eizaburo at Fortune Centre.