Review: Magpie’s bold, globally-inspired flavours hit the spot

The backstory

Magpie isn’t just a new restaurant opening — it’s a deeply personal project by New Zealand native chef-owner Eliot Thomas.

The globetrotting chef Thomas had worked with the same team behind Kafe Utu and Tamba on this new restaurant.

With Magpie, he wanted to create something different: A space where he could break away from the constraints of a fixed cuisine and embrace a more spontaneous, ingredient-driven approach to cooking.

The restaurant’s name is a playful nod to how magpie birds are seen as the collector of things, which also happens to reflect chef Thomas’ culinary philosophy. 

Instead of being boxed into serving up a single cuisine, the restaurant draws inspiration from his travels, experiences, and a lifelong obsession with bold, unpretentious flavours.

This means you’ll find dishes that feel familiar yet surprising, seamlessly blending techniques and ingredients from different cultures — a genre he dubs “borderless soul food”.

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Our verdict

If you’re a huge fan of big, brave flavours, the food at Magpie will more than satisfy you. 

Chef Thomas’ palate for a medley of sweet, tart, tangy, and spicy showcases in almost every dish we enjoyed, except for dessert, of course. 

For two diners (as we were), stick to one snack, one small plate, one big plate, and a dessert — it’ll keep your bellies happy and save enough room for one of its delicious cocktails or beers. 

If you’re the type of diner that is keen on interacting with the friendly staff and learning more about the ins and outs of the menu, request a seat at the bar or counter.

What it’s good for

The plate of grilled squid, melon chaat salad (S$25) may seem like a cacophony that simply doesn’t make sense, but it’s one of the most beautifully chaotic dishes we’ve tried recently.

The textural contrast alone is intriguing, balancing creamy, crunchy, with plenty of crisp elements — the tender squid is paired with tamarind, mint oil, seasoned yoghurt, and juicy melon, making for a refreshingly tangy, yet deeply savoury bite.

The prawn tostada, tomato fresca (S$23) has been a staple on Magpie’s menu since it opened in January — and we can taste why. 

The dish features a mix of minced and chopped prawns, with the minced portion tossed in torch ginger flower, fresh herbs, and seasonings. The prawn mixture is then sandwiched between two crispy corn tortillas, deep-fried, and topped with prawn mayo, tomato fresca and prawn oil.

The result? An aromatic, crunchy, and flavour-packed bite that’s hard to forget.

We don’t know how long it’ll remain on the menu as the menu is tweaked according to seasonality, but we’d say this dish alone is worth making a visit down, stat.

Magpie isn’t kidding around when it calls its mains “big plates” because the lamb t-bone, burnt aubergine, yoghurt, urfa, pomegranate molasses (S$58) is a hunky slab of succulent lamb that we implore you to order.

It’s generously seasoned with Turkish chilli oil, cumin, coriander seeds, and dried lime, with spiced yoghurt and burnt chilli flakes round out the bold flavours.

What you get is a moreish, juicy lamb that effortlessly gives way under a few strokes of a knife. 

With such a delicious base, coupled with lamb drippings, it felt almost criminal that the restaurant didn’t offer the option to get bread as a side dish (as opposed to a main on its menu at S$12) to mop up all of that saucy goodness. 

If you’re looking for a reason to order dessert, the pineapple tart, ricotta sorbet (S$16) is reason enough. Baked like a galette (a French pastry with a flat, free-form crust and a sweet or savoury filling), the crust has a satisfyingly crisp, slightly flaky shell.

It is paired with a ricotta sorbet that’s mildly sour and milky (although not as full-bodied as full-cream milk), and works well overall as both a palate cleanser and a sweet treat that doesn’t burden the taste buds after a decadent meal.

What it could improve on

It’s tough to find fault with Magpie’s thoughtfully executed food and warm hospitality. However, if we had to nitpick, the prices of the large plates might be a little steep, making frequent visits harder to justify.

That said, gathering a group of fellow food enthusiasts is the best way to enjoy more dishes and soften the wallet pinch at the same time.

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? Yes. While there’s music playing in the background, it isn’t too loud that’ll interfere with your conversation.

Is a reservation necessary? We highly recommend putting your name down for a table, even on weekdays. With it being a new opening, while there might be space for walk-ins, they’re usually counter seats (yes, even on a weekday evening!).

How to get there? Magpie is a 450m (or seven-minute) walk from Havelock MRT station.

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.

For the latest eats, read our story on our favourite matcha spots. Alternatively, check out our guide on these Indian restaurants that’ll satisfy your next spice craving.

Do explore the GrabFood Dine Out service for awesome deals.

You can also book a ride to Magpie restaurant at Eng Hoon Street.