Review: Latido wins us over with its broths, bold bites, and big hearts

Singapore’s dining scene isn’t short on global flavours — we’ve got everything from Peruvian Turkish fare. But Colombian cuisine? That we haven’t heard of. 

Until Latido, that is.

Latido is a new spot on Tras Street that proudly flies the flag for the South American country’s rich culinary heritage.

Known for its diverse landscapes and cultural influences, Colombian food is a mix of bold spices, comforting stews, grilled meats, and fresh coastal flavours — a little bit of everything, if you may, depending on which region you’re in.

The backstory

Latido, which means “(rhythmic) beat” in Spanish — is run by Bogota-born chef, Fernando Arevalo, who previously helmed fine-dining restaurant Preludio (that changed its menu “chapter” annually) and modern Latin American restaurant Bacata. Both of closed their doors in 2023 and 2024, respectively. 

The current concept in Tras Street departs from the linen-draped tables of the chef’s former fine-dining establishments. Instead, at Latido, chef Fernando has chosen to focus on hearty Colombian fare, best shared at the table, with about five to six dishes for two people.

Said to be Singapore’s first Colombian restaurant, the seating follows the casual tone of the menu, featuring a mix of high tables and counter seats. 

The unique and tasteful Columbian craft decor peppered around the spot also adds character to the two-unit shophouse.

Our verdict

The menu is split into three sections — snacks, appetisers, and mains. Prices start off relatively elevated, with most dishes priced above S$25, so it’s not the place to be if you’re on a budget (or you’ll need to be mindful about what you’re ordering). 

Having never had Colombian food before, we went in with tempered expectations, not expecting to be wow-ed by every dish, but in a happy turn of events every course came with flavours that just hit all the right notes. 

From a simple ceviche appetiser to a blue cod main that we severely underestimated, Latido ticked all the boxes for a fun, delicious night out.

And while there was only one dessert on the menu, it was the perfect ending to a satisfying meal. 

As if the food didn’t impress us enough, the affable staff won us over, too.

Not only did they patiently answer every question we had (even about where its chefs bought their plastic containers from!), but they made us feel extremely welcome from the moment we stepped into the restaurant.

What it’s good for

Chicken hearts may not be the first thing many gravitate towards in a fancy place, but the pincho de corazones (chicken heart skewers, S$22) called out to us instantly. (We just couldn’t stay away from one of our favourite offals!). 

The dish, served with Andes potatoes and dipping sauce made of red wine and egg yolk, is a moreish one that is well-punctuated by the richness of the accompanying sauce. 

If you feel like everything gets too punchy, you can intersperse it with bites of its roasted potatoes, which are skillfully cooked to achieve a crisp exterior and fluffy core. The potatoes are also basted with a lick of chilli oil that adds a nice touch of heat to the appetiser.

We didn’t expect the bocados de tiradito (a Peruvian dish of thinly sliced fish, S$22) to be presented in kueh pie tee cups, but after one bite, it all made sense.

The cups are filled with chopped sawara (Spanish mackerel), laced with leche de tigre (often called Tiger’s Milk and usually made by slightly blending fish trimmings, onion, garlic, ginger, coriander stalks, and chilli), and topped with lime pearls.

If nothing else on the snacks menu catches your eye, pick this. 

The dish is light, zesty, and fresh — and best enjoyed in a single bite. We could’ve wolfed down five in a row if given the chance.

Our next dish, with an unconventional, not-often-seen protein in Singapore, came highly recommended by Latido’s server.

The arepan conejo (rabbit meat on cassava wraps, S$38) is a particularly adventurous choice if all you’ve typically eaten are the rudimentary beef, chicken, and pork. However, it’s by no means any less mouthwatering. 

Plated on a cassava wrap, the braised rabbit is topped with bacon and a snowfall of aged parmesan.

To truly savour these, use your hands and enjoy them as you would a taco. Despite being categorised as white meat, rabbit’s taste is more akin to beef, and because it’s been sous vide and braised, the meat is melt-in-your-mouth tender.

The aged parmesan also did wonders in giving the dish a wholesome, funky aftertaste.

When deciding which main dish to share, we were hesitant about ordering the sopa langosta (lobster soup, S$50) — mostly because of its hefty price tag but also because, well, it’s lobster. How good can it be, we thought. 

However, with the earnest persuasion of our server, we caved, and boy, it was a pretty penny worth spending.

This soup may not be a familiar recipe for many of us, but it carried the same comfort and reassurance as a hearty bowl of homemade congee. It had the right amount of salt to keep you yearning more, while the charred corn kernels added a sweetness that tied the dish together.

Just like the potato-based broth, there was little to fault about the accompanying semi-poached lobster meat — it’s sweet and plump, and managed to thoroughly convince us that spending too much on dinner at Latido was well worth it.

Again, at the recommendation of our friendly server, we decided to order another dish, the arroz caldoso (brothy rice, S$48).

Unanimously crowned the best dish of the evening by us,, the blue cod that came with the rice was perfectly flaky, with an extra crackly skin. 

Beneath it, Acquerello rice (a carnaroli variety typically used in risotto recipes) and granadilla (belonging to the passionfruit family) line the base.

The dish’s standout quality is the luxuriously creamy and umami uni broth. When paired with the subtle tang of the granadilla, it creates the sort of dish that you’ll order extra rice for — if you can hold yourself back from polishing off the broth.

What it could improve on

With such stellar dishes one after another, we had hoped that the dessert would be just as memorable, but it was just short of impressive. 

For now, there’s only one option, the platanitos (fried green plantains, S$16). Overly ripe plantain is caramelised and crowned with brown sugar sponge cake and a dollop of burrata ice cream. 

However, we felt that the recipe lacked a touch of salt to end the dinner on a high, or perhaps a funkier cheese could’ve been used in place of burrata. It’s a decent dessert, but not complex enough to be memorable.

Additionally, while the food and service are pretty impeccable, we’d advise having your wallets financially ready. And we mean really prepared.

The appetisers’ price averages in the high 20s, while the mains will set you back from S$42 onwards. 

It might be a handsome price to fork out, but with some prudent planning, dining at Latido is a meal that’ll leave a long, healthy impression on you.

Some might also argue, as Singapore’s first Colombian restaurant, the slightly elevated prices are a fair compromise for not having to jump on a plane to savour the cuisine — we can’t say we disagree. 

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? Yes. While the atmosphere here is convivial, the music doesn’t overshadow intimate conversations.  

Is a reservation necessary? Yes, it is highly recommended. We could only get an early evening slot on a weekend, and we reckon weekdays would be just as busy.

How to get there? Latido is a 5-minute walk from Maxwell MRT station Exit 1.

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.

For the latest eats, read our story on Blue Bottle’s permanent cafe at Raffles City. Alternatively, check out our Joo Chiat cafe guide.

Do explore the GrabFood Dine Out service for awesome deals.

You can also book a ride to Latido restaurant at Tras Street.