Review: Cookboys by Han’s is the brand’s newest British-Hainanese concept, and it’s surprisingly good

Han’s is one of those brands that’s been around so long it deserves its own page in Singapore’s history books. It’s reliable and unpretentious, but has somehow been relegated to the background since the early 2000s. 

But even though there hasn’t been much fanfare around Han’s (compared to the buzz of new openings left and right, that is), the brand seems content with feeding people quietly and reliably, with more than 20 outlets under the brand still in operation here. Not too bad for a brand whose history dates back to the 1970s.

And that’s precisely why Cookboys, its newest concept at I12 Katong, is worth paying attention to. 

This isn’t a rebrand or a desperate reinvention, but it’s more like Han’s deciding to dress up a little after all these years.

The backstory

Cookboys by Han’s opened in March in the basement of I12 Katong, with an open-concept-style where the whole mall can see exactly what you’re eating when they glance down from the upper floors — an “atrium restaurant” layout that isn’t quite common nowadays.  

It gives it quite the nostalgic vibe, which makes sense for a brand like Han’s. Plus, the prominence of its outlet works in its favour, too, when the food looks this good.

Layout aside, Cookboys’ design leans into a “modern heritage” aesthetic, moving away from the utilitarian cafeteria look of Han’s outlets to warm-wood panelling, teal-blue built-in bench seating, classic cafe chairs with woven rattan backs, and white marble-topped tables.

If you’re curious about the name: The term “cookboys” has historically been used to refer to the young Hainanese men who worked in hotels, British military camps and households since the 1870s.

Working in the kitchens, these cookboys brought together British cooking techniques while staying true to their roots with Hainanese culinary traditions — in fact quite a few of the dishes they used to dish out are what we recognise as “western” food in Singapore today.

In present day, Cookboys at I12 Katong’s menu covers everything from salads and sandwiches to pasta, western mains, and wok delights, with most mains priced between S$14 and S$24. 

Its display counter has some sliced cakes and dessert pies straight from Han’s standard selection — worth a look before you leave.

Our verdict

Going off my memory of my past meals at Han’s, Cookboys strikes me as being similar to Han’s, albeit with better ingredients, nicer plating, and attentive table service. 

For us, the highlights were probably the dishes that leaned into the Hainanese heritage most confidently — shoutout to the mutton stew which was a genuine standout — but from what I’ve tried, even the Western side of the menu has its own strengths. 

Food arrived promptly within five to ten minutes of ordering, even though we dined during peak dinner hour when more than half of the restaurant was full. 

Having grown used to the self-service approach at Han’s, Cookboys’ table service does make a meaningful difference to the overall experience — special props to the friendly and attentive staff, too!

Despite its positioning as a casual restaurant, the warmth from Cookboys’ staff makes the whole experience feel a lot more like a special occasion — something I wasn’t expecting at this price point, but welcome with open arms. 

What it’s good for

You are given the option to top-up S$6 to get a drink and small portion of soup with your main so I do just that — opting for the mushroom soup (U.P. S$6 a la carte). 

Rich, creamy, and full of mushroom flavour, it comes with a generous amount of button mushrooms in every spoonful — which is refreshing considering quite a number of places just dish out a token few. 

It’s a straightforward dish, but it’s warming, tasty, and one that left me excited for what would come next. 

If you have any lingering hesitations about mutton, whether they’re about the gaminess or chewiness sometimes associated with the meat, put it aside. Because the Hainanese mutton stew (S$16.50) here has almost-zero gaminess and a great texture, too. 

It’s not exactly melt-in-your-mouth tender, but it’s tender enough to bite into without too much resistance, which is exactly where you want it to be. 

The mutton comes with a sweet, savoury stew sauce that also has beancurd skin and large pieces of black fungus that absorb the stew’s flavours well, and red dates that lend a natural sweetness to balance out the bold flavours.

As good as the dish is on its own, the accompanying condiment takes it up another notch.

I don’t say this often, but the chilli served alongside is the other reason to order this dish. With its bright, salty, and sharp notes, it resembles a good, ginger-forward chicken rice chilli, but with a special layer that I couldn’t fully place. 

Whatever it is, it cut through the sweetness of the stew with exactly the right amount of heat and pleasure.

You’ll find fish and chips (S$15) at the standard Han’s cafes around the island, but this version earns its place at Cookboys by doing one thing differently: Beer batter. 

The result is a puffier, crispier exterior that arrives beautifully golden and shatters easily to reveal a generous piece of haddock — part flaky, part fleshy, and cooked well. 

The seasoning on the fish is restrained, letting its natural sweetness come through. That said, a squeeze of lemon and a dip in the tangy and creamy tartar sauce goes a long way.

The cajun-spiced fries are somewhat thin, crisp, and well-seasoned, not the chunky, starchy kind I personally prefer, but still a well done and good accompaniment.

From the wok classics section, the Hokkien mee with tiger prawns (S$14.50) comes generously portioned, and there’s easily enough for two to share as part of a larger spread. 

Hokkien mee fans will know there’s usually two styles when it comes to the dish: A drier version that’s quickly stir-fried over high heat for maximum wok hei, and a wetter, gravy-laden style where the noodles soak up the rich, slightly starchy seafood-pork broth for an umami-packed bite, which is what this version is. 

That said, I still get a hint of wok hei running through the dish, which I appreciate.

It comes embellished with two tiger prawns that are fresh and plump, though not particularly sweet, tender squid, pork belly slices, fish cake, and a generous scattering of pork lard that’s still crispy. The accompanying shrimp belacan sambal also adds more flavour than just heat. 

I personally prefer the drier, smoky, style of Hokkien mee, but this is a fairly good rendition that does the job.

Food aside, Cookboys’ drinks are worth a mention, too. 

The golden muscat Breeze (S$4.50) is a simple but refreshing novelty. It is essentially soda water with grape syrup, a few mint leaves, with a couple of skinned muscat grapes on a toothpick and more inside the glass. 

It sounds underwhelming, but comes together well once stirred — not too sweet and pleasantly bubbly.

Then there’s the iced teh with grass jelly (S$5). The bottom layer is filled with sweetened, delicate grass jelly then topped with an aromatic, lightly creamy milk tea. 

It’s a classic combination that’s as satisfying as you can imagine. Cookboys gives you a thin straw and a spoon to dig into the jelly, but I reckon a wider bubble tea-style straw would be a better option. 

What it could improve on

If you recall, Cookboys offers diners the option to add a soup and drink to their meals for an additional S$6.

The other soup option, the chicken borscht soup (U.P. S$8) has decent ingredients: Boiled carrots, potatoes, and cabbage, with a few pieces of tender chicken that still retains its moisture and flavour. 

But the soup base itself disappoints — borscht is supposed to be rich, hearty, and full on flavour, but Cookboys’s broth is thin, watery, and light on the tomato flavour. We think you’d do well to order the mushroom soup instead.

Stuffed from the savoury items, I ordered a slice of tiramisu (S$7) to go, though I snuck a bite before I left.

Not only did I find it a tad expensive for the size, especially when there’s no alcohol used, but Cookboys’ version of tiramisu struggles with balance. 

The mascarpone cheesiness that defines a good tiramisu is largely absent, which leaves the whole thing tasting like whipped cream with only an echo of chocolate (from the layer of cocoa powder dusted on top) and coffee (a soggy layer of sponge layer that’s also light on the espresso). 

Come for the Hainanese-style dishes, order the mushroom soup over the borscht, but skip the tiramisu and save your stomach space for the desserts such as the ondeh ondeh cake, carrot cake, and banana pie instead. 

There’re plenty of other tempting options on the menu so you’ll still leave satiated and satisfied. 

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? Very much so.

Is a reservation necessary? Walk-ins only.

How to get there? Cookboys is in the basement of i12 Katong, a four-minute walk from Marine Parade MRT Exit 3.

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.

For more comforting local eats, check out Udang Clan, a halal spot in the CBD dishing up traditional noodle dishes, and Omma Chicken Soup, a localised take on the popular Korean ginseng chicken soup.