Does Joo Chiat need another bakery-cafe when there are already several famous ones around? 

The neighborhood has certainly seen its fair share of artisanal spots, each vying for the attention of discerning East Coast foodies who’ve grown accustomed to quality pastries within walking distance.

A few — Tigerlily Patisserie and one of Luna Patisserie’s stores — have already closed down since last year, but there are others such as Petit Pain and Bingo, both of which take its bakes very seriously. 

On the patisserie front, there’s also Caro Patisserie, which opened its second outlet in Joo Chiat last December.

As Bastille Bakery proves, the answer is yes, probably — particularly when it’s executed with this level of finesse and culinary savoir-faire.

The backstory

Run by chef-owner Jean Denis Leleu (the former head of pastry at Tiong Bahru Bakery), Bastille Bakery takes over the spacious unit previously occupied by Blue Smoke, the popular modern Teochew restaurant by The 1925 Brewing Co that closed this April.

I was sad to see it go, but I say it’s found a worthy successor in this new bakery bringing a little bit of France to the neighbourhood.

The space feels slightly more roomy compared to many boutique bakeries in Singapore, but smaller than a full-fledged cafe — hitting that sweet spot for a chill cafe experience without feeling cramped. 

Got canine friends? The two tall tables outside are a thoughtful touch for morning dog walks, followed by a breakfast stop.

The counter stretches wide with viennoiserie and glossy pastries on show, and it’s a tantalising, well-stocked display. The shelf of classic breads at the back though, was already empty (save for a lone baguette) when I visited at 2.30pm on a Saturday. 

The staff tell me that these — sourdoughs and other crusty, rustic breads — usually sell out by lunch time.

Our verdict

J’approuve! Bastille Bakery is a welcoming place to enjoy a very bona-fide bake beyond the usual croissant or pain au chocolate, though those classics are executed very well, too. 

As its namesake suggests, this is a bakery that feels quite deeply-rooted in being authentically French, with perhaps Joo Chiat’s best selection of viennoiseries and pastries. 

The textures are spot-on and the flavours balanced and elegant, and it seems like Jean Denis brought with him not just technical expertise, but an understanding of what Singapore palates appreciate in French pastries.

The bakery filled up fast during our weekend afternoon visit, with a steady stream of customers that included both walk-ins and those who appeared to be regulars already, so I can imagine how busy it gets in the mornings.

What it’s good for

If you order just one dessert here, make it the masterfully executed hazelnut praline eclair (S$13). 

The choux shell was light with a fine crisp at the edges, which breaks with a bit of pressure from my fork, while the praline chantilly cream is smooth, sweet, and nutty. 

On top, there are roasted hazelnuts for texture and contrast, and a few dollops of soft chocolate praline that add a rich depth, which builds slowly across the tongue like velvet.

Is there a pastry more beautiful than the humble fruit tart? With the amount of raspberries (both fresh and confit) in the raspberry almond vanilla tart (S$13), it could have been overly tangy and sour, but it’s here that Jean Denis’s technical prowess shows.

Every element is tuned for balance, from the light and fragrant vanilla chantilly, to the gentle sweetness of the almond cream, allowing the raspberry brightness to come through. The housemade shortcrust is well-made too, crisp with a cookie-like texture, yet tender enough to slice through cleanly.

The yuzu lemon tart (S$13) deserves just as much love as its raspberry counterpart. This has considerably more zestiness, with the tangy yuzu lemon curd striking a balance between sweet and tart, and little pockets of intense citrus from the yuzu confit. 

Meanwhile, the layer of almond sponge below adds a pleasant texture and delicate nutiness that elevates this beyond your run-of-the-mill confection.

The grande decadent cookie (S$6) lives up to both parts of its name, weighing at a substantial 100g.

It’s a hefty, chewy thing studded with large milk chocolate drops, chopped hazelnuts, praline, and unexpected hints of orange zest that cuts through the richness of the chocolate while complementing the hazelnuts nicely.

Don’t miss the unique chouquettes (S$10 for eight pieces), those airy puffs of choux dusted with pearl sugar that’ll disappear down your throat, just like that. The texture is addictive: Hollow, crisp, and airy within, dusted with pearl sugar that pops lightly under each bite.

Is it truly a French bakery without good pain au chocolat (S$4.50)? Bastille’s beautifully laminated pastry means its croissants boast distinct layers — an exterior that’s flaky, yet thin enough to melt into the buttery pockets inside. The two bars of dark chocolate are bold and assertive, and not too sweet, its slight bitterness grounding the richness of the dough.

Savouries at Bastille Bakery come in the form of quiches and paninis. Don’t overlook them, especially the quiche with sauteed shrooms (S$12). 

Served warm, it arrives with a simple garden salad of baby lettuce and halved cherry tomatoes dressed lightly in vinaigrette. The shortcrust is really impressive — sturdy enough to contain the luscious filling, but buttery enough to flake with each bite.

The custard is eggy and creamy, and the shrivelled mushrooms lend a gentle umami and earthy depth that smells as good as they taste. Bits of tomato add bright tangy pops that cut through the richness — so, so elegant.

Bastille’s coffee menu (there’s also a small selection of tea and chocolate drinks) keeps things simple: Espresso-based drinks made with a medium-roast blend that complements the pastries well.

The French cafe (S$5) is the only drink with a “thumbs up” next to its name, and it’s essentially a “café double” as they call it in France, a double espresso pulled long.

A small cup arrives at my table crowned with a thick layer of creamy brown crema. This isn’t bitter at all, but slightly sweet and fruity, with perfectly balanced acidity. Try this, especially if you’ve been scared off by overextracted espressos in the past.

What it could improve on

The almond cream croissant (S$6.50) was a little flat, as if crumbled under its own weight, and rather than the puffy layers of a pure croissant, the marzipan cream seems to have soaked into the crumb making it a touch denser than expected. To be fair, I ordered this past 3pm in the afternoon (and it’s likely been sitting out for a while) to take home. 

That aside, there’s plenty to like: The exterior is burnished golden-brown, scattered with sliced almonds and icing sugar. Inside, it’s closer to a soft, buttery pastry rich with toasted almond goodness. Despite the denseness, you can tell the ingredient quality is top-notch.

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? Yes, when you manage to snag one of the few tables inside.

Is a reservation necessary? Walk-ins only.

How to get there? Bastille Bakery is near the junction of Joo Chiat Road and Koon Seng Road, next to the iconic Cheese Shop.

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.