Review: Fangko’s Baby Fangs still has great Indomie, but needs work as a brunch spot

The backstory

Fangko first launched in the corner of Oxley Tower back in 2019, bringing with it its take on modern Indonesian food such as Indomie and nasi lemak with smashed chicken (ayam penyet), bottled coffees, and, more famously, a spice scale that goes all the way to a masochistic Level 21. 

It soon transformed and expanded into iterations like Fangko+ Coffee at Hong Kong Street, Petit Fangko at Margaret Market (which we reviewed in 2023), and just this month, Fangko House on South Bridge Road.

Around the same time, Baby Fangs opened in a small 14-seater space (next to the popular Ryo Sushi) in front of Orchid Hotel. 

It bills itself as an eggs and coffee house, and the “baby” label reflects two things: First, its tiny space that’s barely 22sqm, kitchen inclusive.

Second, it shares a downsized menu compared to its parent Fangko House, with several chicken-based (and one vegan) mains for lunch and dinner, and some breakfast items in the morning.

Atmosphere wise, Baby Fangs feels more like a hole-in-the-wall takeaway joint with a few tables than a full-fledged cafe. 

Think groovy beats of FKJ and Leisure playing in the background alongside the occasional clang of woks and sizzling eggs, along with the smell of oil and instant noodles.

Our verdict

If you’re after deliciously spicy Indomie, ayam berempah and smashed chicken, Baby Fangs get the job done.

But if you’re looking for a chill brunch experience, it doesn’t quite compare to Fangko’s other outlets, where they’ve at least managed to craft a comfortable modern-Indo cafe vibe. 

The ambience at Baby Fangs is functional at best, and the air-conditioning was down during my two visits, but the staff did apologise for that. The breakfast items need a lot of polish as well, if we want to be convinced that this is an “eggs and coffee house”.

What it’s good for

The Indomie chicken (S$9.80) looks like the kind of thing you used to make for supper back in university, only several times better. 

Here, the Indomie is boiled slightly softer than al dente and served slathered in sauce, topped with an excellent fried egg, cucumbers, and shrimp crackers. 

Fangko’s signature smashed chicken leg, pounded flat, chopped up, and doused in chillies is the highlight — juicy, slightly crisp where there’s skin, and extremely satisfying.

With several chilli levels that go up to an eye-watering level 21, we selected a level 2, optimistically labelled “spicy”, and it already had a respectable McSpicy-esque burn. 

Go beyond level 3 (“very spicy”) at your own risk.

Its nasi lemak ayam berempah (S$13.80) is another winner. The bright blue-tinged pea flower rice is fluffy and fragrant, while the ayam berempah is so many things — aromatic, properly seasoned, tender, crispy, and generously portioned.

The sambal is more fiery than your typical sweet nasi lemak sambal — it’s aggressively spicy and citrusy from lime. The crunchy anchovies, peanuts, and (again, a beautifully-fried) egg complete this respectable take on the classic dish.

The drinks are really where Baby Fangs (and from my experience, Fangko as a whole) shines. As expected, the iced black coffee (S$4.80) is genuinely good with balanced acidity, mild bitterness, and a clean finish, just the way I like it. 

You’ve probably seen Fangko’s butterfly lychee soda (S$7.80) quite a bit on Instagram. 

This fizzy sweet-and-sour combination of lychee syrup, lemon juice, and butterfly pea tea is very pleasant and looks suitably pretty for your feed.

Dessert came in the form of the Babymisu (S$7.80), its house tiramisu. It’s not showstopping, but still acceptable. 

The mascarpone cream is light and mildly sweet, and the layer of cocoa powder is nice, but the ladyfingers are somewhat dry and lack that crucial coffee-soaked indulgence. There’s a hint of rum hiding in there, but barely so. 

What it could improve on

Brunch is definitely not Baby Fangs’s strong point. The big breakfast (S$21.80) is an uninspired plate, considering it’s the most expensive thing on the entire menu.

The sausage was juicy but tasted bland, the ham lacked flavour, while the the slices of sourdough were limp, and the tater tots came a tad too oily.

The ham cheese French toast (S$8.80) fared slightly better with its slightly crisp exterior, though it lacked real fluffiness inside. 

A pile of cheesy scrambled eggs atop the toast adds richness, but quickly leans into jelak territory after a few bites. The thin slice of ham does little to balance out the oiliness.

Worse still, though, was the wait (over 30 minutes) on a Sunday when I was one of just two customers in the shop — the brunch dishes took inexplicably long on my first visit. It sped up after another cook came in, though, so it could have been a teething issue with manpower and logistics, given it is still relatively new. 

When I returned in the evening two days later for dinner, the kitchen thankfully ran far more efficiently with the Indomie and nasi lemak flying out in just over five minutes. Go figure.

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? Only if you come in a small group – limited seats only.

Is a reservation necessary? Nope, walk-ins only. 

How to get there? Baby Fangs is a 2-minute walk from Tanjong Pagar MRT Exit A.

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.

For more ideas on what to eat, read more about the heartland teahouse in Macpershon and the hidden bar The Cocktail Office with free-flow cocktails.

Enjoy up to 50% off when you dine with GrabFood Dine Out.

You can also book a ride to Baby Fangs at Tanjong Pagar.