Homegrown restaurant Putien is a culinary love letter to Putian’s fresh, local delights

Duotou clams — A cherished seasonal speciality

So why are its clams so irresistibly succulent?

My firsthand experience as a one-time clam farmer at Duotou village revealed that it’s all about nutrient-loaded black mud that the clams grow in, careful farming, and a whole lot of love.

Duotou village has been growing these razor clams for over 600 years, with no fancy machines or technology involved — just pure human grit — as farmers nurture these molluscs by hand.

When spring arrives and the earth warms up, farmers start the process by meticulously planting the clam larvae one by one in a fertile bed of black mud. 

By the time summer rolls around, these clams would have bulked up to a whopping 6cm long, thanks to the nutrient-rich mud and high-salinity waters, which all add to the clams’ sweetness, producing a much more succulent meat.

For me, it was a humbling (but fun) experience, to say the least. 

10 minutes of digging got me nothing but mud, until a farmer pointed out that I needed to stick my arm much further into the muddy ground — up to 30cm deep! 

I hear that these farmers also spend nearly five hours a day filling one bucket, stuck in highly viscous mud and under the scorching sun — after experiencing it myself, I have to say, I’ve so much respect for them.

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Loquats — Putian’s golden charm

Another highly sought-after ingredient during this season is loquats, which I got the chance to hand-pick at Pingpan Village.

Packed with vitamins and antioxidants, these golden-hued gems are said to be great for lung health and are traditionally used to soothe coughs.

These palm-sized fruits are grown on trees for 30 to 50 years, nourished by rich soil and ample sunlight. The end products boast a juicy, floral sweetness and taste like a gentle mix of a mango and an apricot. 

These oh-so-sweet loquats are delicate like a baby’s skin, too, which requires precise hand-harvesting — making each fruit a true labour of love. 

Its peeling process is similarly meticulous: To peel a loquat, start by gently rolling it between your palms. Then, with a light pinch at the pointed tip, use your fingernails to peel back the skin, much like unveiling a banana — revealing the soft fruit within. 

Prefer to have someone else peel them for you? These are available at Putien as a refreshing treat in its chilled loquat in herbal jelly (S$6.80).

Yellow croaker fish — A well-loved coastal delicacy

A 30-minute ferry ride away from Putian sits Huanggua Island — the home of Putien’s valued yellow croakers and oysters. 

With its clean and pollution-free waters, the island offers the ideal environment where yellow croakers can be sustainably and naturally reared. 

And if you’re wondering how the yellow croaker got its name — it is thanks to its natural yellow pigmentation. 

Another fun fact: It’s also caught only at night to preserve its innate golden body, and buttery, tender flesh. 

As the local farmers haul in their catch in the evenings, an intriguing “gua gua” noise fills the air. This call, unique to the yellow croaker fish, can be heard from the moment they’re lifted from the waters.

To showcase its natural freshness, the fish is served simply at Putian, steamed with soy sauce. You can try the delicate fish flesh for yourself by ordering its “100-second” stewed yellow croaker (S$16 per diner) or pan-fried yellow croaker (S$48). 

As someone who seldom includes fish in my diet, the delicate sweetness of the yellow croaker fish has definitely altered my brain chemistry and got me thinking about trying more fish — it’s that delicious.

Sea salt — Meticulously harvested, nationally recognised 

Last, but not least, we also explored where Putien gets its premium-grade sea salt.

It’s a product that Putian proudly calls an “imperial tribute” as it was recognised on Fujian province’s Intangible Cultural Heritage’s list in 2022, which awards time-honoured, cultural traditions and practices in the region. 

After seeing and tasting it for myself, I can conclude it’s more than your run-out-of-the-mill seasoning. 

For one, the scene at the salt fields is quietly majestic: Salt farmers move with a gentle rhythm to sun-dry seawater, while a faint briny aroma drifts in the air. 

The whole process where farmers carefully filter and evaporate seawater through layered terraced fields demands a lot of patience, so as to preserve the salt’s natural crystalline form. 

Especially when you add the fact that they can only do these on days with strong sunlight and a calm coastline.

But you might think, all that work just for salt?

It’s not just any salt. Unlike the sharp salinity of table salt, Putian’s sea salt offers a gentle umami note first, while the briny notes hit after. 

It’s clean and nuanced, and we can see why Uncle Fong has an unwavering loyalty to his hometown’s salt and uses it in his dishes at his restaurants. 

For a taste of this, the best way to try it would be to order the salt-baked yellow croaker (S$48.80), prepared with this very sea salt.

My final thoughts

These days, many restaurants anchor their menus around fresh, imported ingredients that are flown in from all corners of the globe.

But my visit to Putian offered a somewhat different kind of story — one that focuses on just one region, but also one that is rooted in heritage, care, coupled with Uncle Fong’s commitment to authenticity. 

The entire Putien restaurant concept as a whole is a reflection of his deep love for his hometown, and his vision of bringing the soul of Putian cuisine to every plate is plain to see, especially after visiting his hometown. 

Putien’s Duotou clam festival

For a taste of what Putian has to offer, there’s no better time than now — Putien’s Doutou clam festival takes place from now to August 15. 

It celebrates the prized clams of Putian (also known as razor clams), which are well-loved for its remarkable sweetness and plump, juicy flesh.

This year, the delicacy is offered in eight different dishes and to sweeten the deal, you can enjoy two delectable dishes for just S$48.80. We say it’s quite a steal in this economy!

The salt-baked Doutou clams (S$29.80) is a new favourite of mine — a simple, yet appealing dish that I’ll go back for, any day.

For now, I’ll indulge my cravings with these comforting dishes at Putien till my next time back in Putian. 后会有期 (hope to see you again)!

This was a hosted trip.

For the latest eats, read more about 24-hour eatery Feng Sheng’s newest outlet at East Coast and the new Italian restaurant Cudo at Telok Ayer.

Putien is on the GrabFood delivery service and offers free delivery (up to S$3 off) with GrabUnlimited.

Enjoy up to 50% off when you dine with GrabFood Dine Out.

You can also book a ride to any of Putien’s stores to try its Putian fare.