Review: Sta Western is Katong’s new retro diner with big portions and bigger value

East Coast Road doesn’t need much of an introduction as a food destination, having been home to iconic restaurants for decades, yet it still manages to keep finding room for something new, or in this case, something old-school 

Enter Sta Western, a retro diner with arcade machines, a bright blue neon sign, and 24-hour ambitions, which is quite a refreshing sight, even for this neighbourhood.

The backstory

If you find the name familiar, that’s because Sta Western is run by the same team behind Star Western in Kovan.

This new space along East Coast Road is its first standalone concept with a proper fit-out and much more retro personality. Think warm yellow LED lights and old pop culture posters which give it the feel of a vintage Hong Kong film set and American diner combined.

Once I enter, I immediately notice the arcade machines (the iconic cult favourites Bishi Bashi and Time Crisis, no less) sitting at the entrance, though these are currently switched off while the team awaits their entertainment licence.

When the machines are finally able to come online, they’ll cost S$1 a play, and will be another reason for me to linger.

Sta Western’s menu is built around the hawker-style western fare you’d usually find all around Singapore: Chicken chop, fish and chips, lamb chop, hot plate steak, and a handful of (mostly fried) sides, starting from $9.90 and going up to S$24.50 for a hotplate steak. 

If there’s anything slightly different from other western food stalls around Singapore, it’s that its mains come loaded — fries, baked beans, garlic bread, sunny side up, hot dog, and coleslaw all arrive on the same metal tray.

Our verdict

I’ll be real upfront: Sta Western isn’t a destination for food connoisseurs. 

The food doesn’t surprise, but what it does is fill you with decent, familiar food in a space that’s fun to be in. The fact that retro vibes and comfort are the real draw right now also adds to Sta Western’s appeal.

At the casual, no-frills East Coast Road outlet, tunes from 987FM play over the speakers, and the air-conditioner provides welcome relief in today’s weather as you dine. The whole place is also clean, and the team is fast and efficient. 

When I dropped in at 2pm on a weekday, it was already half full — we also spotted several signs reminding us to limit our stay to an hour during peak meal hours — a sure indication of its already-growing popularity. 

What it’s good for

Sta Western’s Hainanese chicken chop (S$9.90) is somewhat special, because the traditional Hainanese sauce — the type that’s tomatoey and mildly sweet, dotted with onion, carrot, corn, and peas — isn’t something you’ll find easily nowadays.

It’s a classic flavour that’s also somewhat old-school, and Sta Western does it justice. The chicken chop itself is a hefty, proper piece that’s cooked well enough to stay juicy, with the slightest hint of smoky char.

I mentioned earlier that all the mains come with the same set of sides, and it gives a satisfying, value-for-money, piled-high quality to each plate. 

The shoestring fries are lightly seasoned with Cajun spices for a mild kick — not particularly crispy, but fluffy and starchy inside. 

The garlic bread is acceptable but could do with a stronger garlic punch, and I’d have preferred the sunny side up egg a touch less cooked and still runny, ideally. 

As for the baked beans, hot dog, and coleslaw, these are straightforward, no-frills accompaniments.

We tried another western stall classic, the fish and chips (S$9.90). Sta Western at East Coast Road uses the old-school breadcrumb coating, which is usually my preferred style of batter. 

The dory fillet comes hot, crispy, and honestly good enough to eat on its own, without a hint of fishiness. A squeeze of lemon lifts it noticeably and the tartar sauce is creamier and more appetising than many I’ve tried in coffeeshop Western stalls.

Onto heftier mains, the lamb chop (S$14.50) arrives thin but is so easy to eat. I can taste a faint hint of the baking soda used to tenderise the meat, but it’s subtle enough and also does a good job covering the gaminess.

The black pepper sauce is mildly sweet and savoury rather than intensely peppery — at S$14.90, this is decent value for a quick and easy lamp chop.

If your mains aren’t enough (which we doubt since the sides are plentiful), you can order some fried chicken — comprising a wing and a rib-in breast — for S$8.90. 

The fried chicken seasoning is on the lighter side, which means what you get is natural chicken flavour rather than a heavily spiced crust.

It’s tasty enough, though the meat could be juicier and more tender. This isn’t the most exciting thing on the menu, and there are better places for fried chicken, but it’s decent, especially for the portion and price point. 

If you do make space for an additional side, though, let it be Sta Western’s fried squid (S$11.90). 

I’ve been disappointed many times by fried calamari elsewhere — usually it arrives too oily, too heavy on the batter, or is just plain rubbery. 

Thankfully Sta Western’s version isn’t one of those — it serves up tender and brined pieces of squid, fried with a light batter that doesn’t leave an oily aftertaste, made even better by a spice kick from the Cajun spices and accompanying tartar sauce.

To round off the meal, I opt for the USA baked potato (S$3.50) which is simple and well-executed. 

I love a good baked potato and Sta Western’s delivers: It’s starchy and baked to a great consistency — easy to slice through without falling apart. 

The dollop of sour cream, which comes generously sprinkled with sea salt and bacon bits that look and taste just like the delicious ones from McCormick’s, ties the dish together perfectly.

Drink options at Sta Western include the usual kopi, teh, Milo, as well as iced teas. 

It probably goes without saying but the drinks portion here matches the food. The iced yuan yang (S$3) leans more tea-forward than coffee, which I liked, and the “tarik”, or pulling of the drink, adds foam on top that gives it a bit more body and airiness than the classic HK-style yuan yang.

We also got the iced teh limau (S$3), and it’s a decent, refreshing thirst quencher. I ordered this less sweet, and the black tea comes through clearly, though I wish it was a touch more tangy and citrusy.

Still, for three bucks, and with the portion you get, it’s hard to complain.

What it could improve on

If I was to be critical, some of the sides — the egg, the garlic toast, the hot dog — taste like they’ve been pre-prepared and rather than cooked to order, with them arriving at room temperature alongside the hotter mains on the plate. Having them hot and fresh would make a meaningful difference.

Right now, the arcade machines are currently switched off while the entertainment licence comes through, which is a shame, because they’re a big part of what makes Sta Western more than just a Western food stall. 

One of the brand’s biggest selling points is also its 24-hour opening hours (it is still only operating from 11am to 9.30pm daily at the point of publication), but we understand from the staff that they’re still a few weeks away from finalising this. 

Once all of these are live, I’d say Sta Western at East Coast would be worth a revisit.

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? Yes, but only if you keep it brisk, with Sta Western suggesting a one-hour dining limit.

Is a reservation necessary? Walk-ins only.

How to get there? Sta Western is a 6-minute walk away from Marine Parade MRT Exit 4.

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.

For other new openings around town, check out our monthly round-up, and this new coffee roaster at Clarke Quay.