Review: Meh’r by Inderpal serves comfort with a kick, but not without some stumbles

The backstory

Before stepping into the MasterChef kitchen, Inderpal Singh was originally an accountant, during which he launched a home-based F&B venture in 2020, selling butter chicken and roti (Indian-style bread). It was fuelled by his Punjabi roots and childhood memories in the kitchen — which he did for two and a half years. 

When MasterChef Singapore Season 4 aired, the jovial and level-headed Inderpal caught viewers’ attention not only with his flair for flavour, but also his passion for transforming home-cooked nostalgia into refined dishes.

Fans of the show might even recall one of his standout dishes — the “Bak Bak” Soy, an ingenious deconstructed Hainanese chicken rice dish — but really, it was his consistently strong performances that earned him the crown as the champion of the local version’s fourth season.

Post-show, he didn’t rest on his laurels; the hardworking chef honed his technical skills as chef de partie at Burnt Ends for six and a half months, and then ventured into the world of private dining, hosting thoughtfully curated six-course menus.

As whispers of a permanent restaurant project swirled, Inderpal’s private-dining supporters — so in love with his food — stepped in to back the dream, nudging him toward setting up his own space.

The result? Meh’r by Inderpal, which opened in January this year. The restaurant, named after his daughter, is a modern celebration of Southeast Asian street food, with a refined twist.

Meh’r by Inderpal’s menu spotlights dishes from his MasterChef repertoire (such as the earlier Bak Bak wings), alongside new creations inspired by his travels, which include items such as Thai-influenced ceviches, Indian-spiced sambals and masalas, and playful Ramly sliders.

Our verdict

Off the bat, Meh’r by Inderpal makes a strong first impression with its service. The floor staff were warm, attentive, and our sprightly manager made the evening even more enjoyable. 

On its food, the restaurant rotates its menu every three months. We visited during the final week of its KTM-inspired menu (Keretapi Tanah Melayu, which refers to intercity train services in Peninsular Malaysia, Singapore, and Thailand) — which draws flavours from Singapore, Malaysia, and a pinch of Thailand. 

This was its second menu change since it opened earlier this year.

We were advised to go for the mainstays — dishes that have been firm favourites since its opening and likely to stay in the next menu iteration — when ordering. 

We went along with our server’s suggestions, and while we appreciated the creativity on display, we have to admit that not every dish landed in terms of cohesiveness or flavour balance.

Still, there’s no denying the heart and spice in Inderpal’s cooking, and there was a clear standout for us: The lamb briyani (S$42), which we seriously considered getting a second portion of, just to take home.

When it came to Meh’r’s cocktails, however, the offerings didn’t quite match the energy of the food. 

For example, the coconut crush (S$25) — with rum, coconut water, cinnamon clove syrup, gula Melaka, and citric acid — tasted weak and didn’t seem to be able to hold its own against the intense, savoury flavours.

We think Meh’r could do with a bolder drinks list to elevate the overall dining experience, especially given the richness of its menu.

What it’s good for

Each boneless wing is stuffed with fragrant chicken rice and coated in a glossy char siew glaze, then finished with a fermented soya sauce. A dollop of banana-sweetened, vinegar-free chilli sauce added a fun twist — it tasted more sweet than spicy, but was overall well-balanced.

Did the wings measure up to the hype and their appearance? That’s an easy yes from us.

The dish also came with a consomme brewed over eight hours using recycled vegetable scraps, resulting in a clean yet flavourful broth that rounds out the starter beautifully. We were advised to enjoy this with the stuffed chicken, much like you would with a side of soup with your chicken rice.

Equally comforting was the lamb briyani (S$42) at Meh’r by Inderpal, an indulgent number that easily takes the crown for best dish of the night, we think.

The shareable dish arrived under a cloche of cherry wood smoke, with the fragrance of coconut fat and pistachio-cranberry rice setting the tone. 

The ample-sized serving of lamb was satisfyingly fatty and tender, striking a great balance between richness and chew. The accompanying rice was fluffy and aromatic — the kind which you can easily polish off by yourself.

Paired with cucumber raita (an Indian side dish made with yoghurt, spices, herbs, and vegetables), this hearty dish alone makes this place worth a revisit. 

For dessert, we couldn’t resist the MSWBS (S$24) — a durian-forward finale perfect for peak season.

Made with Mao Shan Wang kheer (Indian pudding), Mao Shan Wang ice cream, almond chocolate “soil”, and a slab of burnt butter brioche, this dessert ticks all the boxes for durian lovers.

While the durian kheer wasn’t as pungent (or aromatic, as avid durian fans such as ourselves would prefer to call it) as the fruit on its own — which is a nice touch as it wasn’t too overpowering — it still had an enjoyably creamy texture. 

Sadly, other elements, such as the brioche and chocolate “soil”, felt a tad mismatched. Still, thankfully, the durian kheer alone is luxurious enough to carry the dish.

What it could improve on

While we loved a fair share of dishes for their creativity and execution at Meh’r by Inderpal, not everything hit the mark, which we also shared with the receptive team. 

The Kerala pepper prawn toast (S$28), for one, felt a little too disjointed to love. 

It comes served with a shallow pool of rasam beurre blanc, and a sourdough toast topped with grilled Argentinian king prawn pepper fry and a cured egg yolk.

While the rasam beurre blanc was silky and bright, the minced prawn on toast tasted far too salty. Together, they didn’t quite gel — one was too plain, while the other was overwhelmingly seasoned. Even the cured egg yolk didn’t work much to ease the overbearing saltiness.

We understood the intention of varying flavour intensities, but the dish as a whole didn’t land as hoped.

The laksa fish (S$42) was another miss for us, especially with its premium price tag, too.

There was a distinct bitterness in the laksa base, which chef Inderpal later explained came from the dried assam, burnt sweet potato, and tau pok. We understand it was meant to cut through the richness of the laksa, in place of lime.

Unfortunately, that swap didn’t sit well with us, as the overly punchy bitterness lingered even after finishing the dish. 

It was a shame, really, especially since the fish was impeccably flaky and soft, and the crispy elements in the dish (such as the purple potato crisps and fried vermicelli) gave such an enjoyable mouthfeel.

To chef Inderpal’s credit, he acknowledged that this was a divisive dish. Sadly, we fell into the camp of diners who didn’t quite take to it.

That being said, Meh’r by Inderpal’s menu is still a solid effort that excels in daring to be bold and brave in its flavours. With all new establishments, there might be teething issues at the get-go, but we’re confident that chef Inderpal and the restaurant will find its solid footing soon enough.

If anything, the lamb briyani is a memorable order that, while pricey, is worth experiencing and enjoying at least once. We can also see ourselves popping in every few months to see what exciting, fun creations chef Inderpal has up his sleeves.

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? Yes, it’s an intimate dining space with ambient lighting and softly played music.

Is a reservation necessary? As the dining space is cosy, and seats 30 diners, reservations are highly recommended.

How to get there? Meh’r by Inderpal is a 2-minute walk from Clarke Quay MRT Exit E.

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.

For the latest eats, read more about our monthly round-up of the new openings in Singapore and Khao Kaeng that serves up lesser-known Thai fare.