Review: Carnaby, where Brit-pop vibes meet modern British comfort fare

Ask me where to find one of the best burgers in town, and I’ll readily say Three Buns Quayside, so when I heard they were closing on March 31 after six years, it felt like a gut punch.

After all, what could possibly replace its classic juicy, succulent Huey burger with its Tasmanian vintage beef patty, Tillamook cheddar and spiced mayonnaise? 

Thankfully my spirits lifted pretty quickly once I learned that chef Adam Penney — the mastermind behind Three Buns Quayside — was transforming the former Three Buns space into Carnaby, a modern British diner.

The backstory

Inspired by London’s iconic Carnaby Street, which is also known for being a cultural hub, Carnaby at Quayside is all about the vibes. 

The industrial chic decor of the old Three Buns stays, with its exposed chipboard walls and cool vinyl record decor celebrating Brit-pop legends like The Beatles and Radiohead.

And yes, the music is precisely what you’d expect of a British spot — a lineup of catchy British hits.

A new white subway-tiled partition now separates the indoor and outdoor seating areas, giving the space a slightly more demarcated and fresh.

Our verdict

I dropped by on a Sunday when the mood was easygoing. There were groups of friends and families gathered with kids running around — and there I was, quietly rooting for chef Penney not to let me down.

Carnaby’s menu is divided into signatures and mains, and for first-timers, I’d say dive right into the signatures section (like I did). The dishes in this section are ideal for whetting your appetite and focus on chef Penney’s spin on classic British fare (which is really what you want to experience here).

Its desserts are worth indulging in, too, so be sure to leave room for a shared sweet treat. 

In fact, I made sure not to order too much, giving me a reason to return and try the other dishes. If you’re on the lookout for a new place for your next leisurely weekend catch-up, this casual hangout offers deliciously comforting British dishes — albeit with modern flair.

What it’s good for

Among the starters, the chicken liver parfait (S$19) stands out: Light, airy and elevated with port and brandy for a subtle sweetness, the parfait comes served on toasted sourdough with caramelised onion jam and topped with pickled red shallots.

If liver isn’t your usual go-to, I’d still say take a chance on this one — it’s not too gamey, and the texture is so smooth it practically melts. The acidity from the pickled shallots and the crunch of the sourdough complete the bite.

What would a visit to a former Three Buns’ chef’s new spot be without us trying its burgers?

We headed straight for the Carnaby burger (S$36), a juicy, moreish creation made with a 150g beef patty, Wookey Hole cheddar (cave-aged cheese!), relish, and Carnaby mayonnaise. The pillowy brioche buns? Perfection.

At close to 40 dollars for a burger, it’s a bit steep price-wise, but I’d argue it’s worth the indulgence.

Burgers may be what we came for, but the dish that truly stole the show? None other than the smoked fish pie (S$34).

With smoked herring, haddock, golden snapper, leeks, and carrots, this homely creation comes with a base of fish stock, mustard seeds and milk.

The moment you take that first spoonful, the smoky aroma reels you in (pun intended), and the balance of seafood sweetness with the earthy smokiness is just right — it’s like a comforting home-cooked meal with a touch of finesse.

What it could improve on

I’m usually all in for vegetable sides, and the charred brussels sprouts (S$14) cooked with tallow (beef fat) and thyme seemed like a solid choice on paper. 

However, upon digging it, I found the middle a bit too firm for my liking, and the whole dish could’ve used a touch more salt to really bring out the flavours.

While I finished most of it, I wouldn’t necessarily order it again.

When it comes to desserts, I tend to gravitate towards the tried and tested. Here, the Trifle IPA Curd & Jelly (S$19) was a gamble — mostly because I don’t believe I’ve ever tried it before. But, hey, there’s no harm in trying new things.

A traditional English trifle consists of a thin layer of sponge fingers or cake soaked in sherry or fortified wine at the bottom, followed by a fruit layer, then custard and whipped cream on top.

Carnaby’s trifle uses beer waste reduced into a concentrated beer syrup to create the bottom-most layers of beer-flavoured jelly. This makes for a punchy first bite, followed by equally potent raspberry compote that digs deep into those sour notes.

There’s a luxurious dark chocolate mousse layer above this, but it gets lost in all the powerful sourness, which is a shame.

Dissecting the dessert, I was able to appreciate it fully for what it is, but having it all at once was a bit of a confusion for my palate. I wouldn’t order this again if I had to conquer it alone but sharing this with the table would work.

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? If conversations over a hearty meal are what you’re after here, I’d recommend booking a table outdoors — just to avoid having to raise your voice over the music and others’ chatter.

Is a reservation necessary? If you’re planning a larger gathering — say, more than four people — then yes, especially on Fridays and the weekends.

How to get there? Carnaby is an 11-minute walk from Fort Canning MRT station’s exit B.

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.

For the latest eats, read our story on Bad Habits Provision, a new pizza-slice shop at Fort Canning. Alternatively, check out our list of must-try Italian restaurants in Singapore.

Enjoy up to 50% off when you dine with GrabFood Dine Out.

You can also book a ride to Carnaby at Robertson Quay.