Review: Cafe Barco by Wunderfolks serves quality Japanese-Western fare in a lovely setting

You know how everyone says that the east has the best food? That’s only if you live anywhere between Geylang and Bedok, where heritage brands and cafes run aplenty. 

Sure, Tampines has a decent number of coffee shops and eateries, but don’t get me started on the dearth of food options in Kaki Bukit, the industrial area that so happens to be one of the closest places, MRT-wise, to me. 

So when Cafe Barco opened up right next to the station, well, I knew I had to check it out.

The backstory

Remember Wunderfolks? Originally a home-based tart business, Wunderfolks recently opened a small dine-in concept in Tampines Mall and has takeaway outlets in Junction 8 and Lot 1.

The brand has now launched its own cafe concept Cafe Barco, located on the first floor of Techview — western-Japanese fusion is the name of the game, with a selection of burgers, donburis, pasta, and of course, its delectable signature tarts for teatime or dessert. 

You’ll also find a selection of fresh bakes, courtesy of CBD bakery Flourcrafts Patisserie, in the form of caneles and madeleines.

Cafe Barco spots a relaxed and inviting space that’s decked out in the brand’s signature blue, with a more contemporary casual cafe aesthetic that’s versatile enough to appeal to both families and seasoned cafe hoppers. 

The large glass facade lets in plenty of natural light, which is always a plus.

Our verdict

My take? Cafe Barco is the long-awaited addition to the Kaki Bukit neighbourhood that I’ve been waiting for. It’s a one-stop spot for tasty mains, drinks, and more notably, the sweet treats that led the Wunderfolks brand to popularity.

While the offerings here can hardly be called innovative and adventurous, those looking for simple and time-tested Japanese-Western dishes will have a good time here.

The pricing is decent for the taste and its dishes come in sizable portions. Food aside, the staff are friendly and welcoming, and the cafe is spacious enough for you to hang out and relax without feeling pressured to leave. Don’t even get me started on the sheer convenience — it’s right next to the Kaki Bukit MRT exit.

What it’s good for

Take a quick look around the cafe and you’re likely to find the mentaiko pasta with salmon (S$18.80) on nearly every table, and it’s not too hard to see why. Linguine is tossed in a light pink mentaiko sauce, then topped with a slab of grilled salmon, tobiko, and an onsen egg.

It’s a heavenly and creamy combination that’s rich with umami and ocean brine. Even the nori garnish adds deeper flavours of the ocean. 

If I had to nitpick, it’d be the plain strips of salmon that could have used a bit more dimension — perhaps a quick torching or even a bit of glaze — to really pull everything together.

I don’t always go for salads at a cafe, but when I do, I hope they turn out just like the Barco salad (S$10). 

The highlight here is the pan-fried tofu charred with a salty miso glaze, but the refreshing mix of mesclun greens, cherry tomatoes, red radish, and orange slices are good as well. They’re all brought together by a tangy vinaigrette with light onion-y notes.

Sandos, or Japanese-style sandwiches, are tricky to get right. Depending on what’s inside — from hefty egg salads to chicken cutlets and wagyu steak — they can taste very different.

Regardless, the good sandos always have something in common: Crustless shokupan milk bread that’s exceptionally soft and fluffy with a fragrance of milk and salt.

For the smoked salmon avo sando (S$12), the bread is somewhat heavily toasted on the top and bottom, so the initial crispiness gives way to a light and airy texture. 

Each piece is sliced just thick enough to serve as a vehicle for the thick avocado slices and smoked salmon — it’s a good pairing. The fat from the ripe and creamy avo cuts the salty brininess from the salmon, and while the chilli flakes on the surface seem like an afterthought, it’s altogether tasty and filling.

Lastly, I couldn’t leave the cafe without trying out its tarts, considering this cafe is an offshoot of a tart specialist. This isn’t my first rodeo with Wunderfolk’s tarts, so I try the flavours that I haven’t tried, starting with one that looks like something out of a molecular gastronomy menu. 

The lychee ispahan tart (S$8) is a trendy flavour that I’ve seen at a few dessert places in Singapore, inspired by the famous Parisan macaron label Pierre Herme’s signature combination of rose (ispahan is the name for a type of rose), raspberries, and lychee. 

Wunderfolk’s version comes with tangy raspberry ganache on top of its buttery pate sablee shell, along with a fragrant lychee rose mousse with lychee flesh. The pretty orange-pink gelee infused with Gryphon Tea’s green tea-based Pearl of the Orient. 

Overall, this is a light and sweet tart that really showcases the ingredients’ subtle floral flavours.

If the ispahan was like a soft field of flowers, the pistachio strawberry tart (S$8) can be described as a zesty garden of indulgence. Think layers of tangy strawberry compote and freeze-dried strawberries, topped with a velvety pistachio bavarois. The pistachio flavour is on the lighter side, but still offers a nice contrast in both texture and taste to the strawberries.

The macadamia caramel tart (S$8) is on the other end of the flavour spectrum, with a salty nuttiness that hits you on the first bite. Most of the complexity comes in the form of the vanilla Chantilly cream, drizzle of rich vanilla caramel, and single macadamia on top. It may seem like the most simple tart here, but the flavour nuances are very compelling.

There are few desserts that seduce me quite like tiramisu, so the Espressomisu tart (S$8) was an easy pick for the box. On top of the shortbread crust is a mix of espresso-infused pastry cream and little espresso-soaked ladyfingers. Crowned with a light vanilla anglaise creme and dusted with fine cocoa powder, it has the delicate balance of a proper tiramisu that makes this great for an afternoon break.

Is it truly tea time if you don’t pair your sweets with a caffeinated pick-me-up? You’ll find the usual suspects: Espresso-based drinks (from S$3.50 for a double espresso), matcha and mocha lattes (from S$5.50), drinking chocolate (S$6) and a good selection of Gryphon teas.

The iced matcha latte (S$6.50) is earthy, milky, smooth, and lightly sweetened, and while I personally prefer a very deep and almost bitter matcha taste, this will likely appeal to most customers. 

The same goes for its flat white (S$5), a very well-balanced drink that’s not overly nutty or fruity. Instead, what you get is a soft and creamy coffee with solid latte art to boot.

What it could improve on

At S$11.80, Barco’s breakfast burger with crispy turkey bacon, scrambled eggs, onion confit, and baby spinach between brioche buns sounds like a steal, but you get what you pay for. 

The brioche buns are a tad too soft, and some toasting would have helped with the soggy bottom from the onions. The turkey bacon has a texture akin to Canadian back bacon and feels a tad limp rather than crisp — a shame, because the scrambled eggs are actually quite decent. 

The brand has other burgers such as the crispy chicken katsu burger and angus beef burger, so that’s on my list for next time.

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? Absolutely!

Is a reservation necessary? Recommended if you’re coming during mealtimes.

How to get there? Cafe Barco is on the first floor of of Techview, conveniently located right in front of Kaki Bukit MRT Station Exit A

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.

If you’re having the munchies, check out this newest Dutch patisserie in town, or just head to our newest openings compilation. 

Cafe Barco at Techview is on the GrabFood Delivery Service and offers free delivery (up to S$3 off with GrabUnlimited). 

Do explore the GrabFood Dine Out service for awesome deals. 

You can also book a ride to try Cafe Barco at Techview.