Sapoto: New yakitori omakase concept helmed by chef duo

Singaporeans certainly aren’t strangers to the concept of omakase. It sure feels like there’s a new spot popping up every few months! Now, we have a new omakase restaurant, Sapoto, jointly run by two renowned chefs, who each bring their own culinary strengths to the grill.

Sapoto (derived from the Japanese word for “support”) at Amara Hotel is a yakitori omakase restaurant helmed by chefs Shyong and Desmond Fong. Chef Shyong brings four years of experience as a yakitori specialist, formerly at Shirokane Tori-Tama (at Robertson Walk).

Meanwhile, chef Desmond has sharpened his knives at fine-dining establishments for over 20 years, including locations such as Sushi Yujo and Shinrai.

Yakitori highlights

Together, the two bring elevated flame-grilled yakitori straight from the binchotan to your seat, with three curated dinner menus: Shinrai (S$98, 15 courses), Sapoto (S$148, 16 courses), and Yujo (S$198, 18 courses).

Currently, they only serve dinner. However, come June 1, they will offer lunch service featuring two menu options: Ai (S$48) and Shinrai (S$98).

Diners are seated in a semi-circle around the grill (in the main 14-seater dining area) and the chefs’ prep station, so we recommend requesting a seat right across the binchotan grill for a smoke show, where chef Shyong works the grill all evening.

Don’t worry about leaving with smoky hair, though; Sapoto’s overhead vents do a stellar job of keeping the space odour-free.

It also uses Sakura chicken, prized for being reared in a clean, controlled environment using Japanese lactobacillus farming methods. All three menus feature a chef’s choice of three kinds of chicken — all seasoned with either salt or yakitori sauce (typically made of soy sauce, mirin, sake, and caster sugar).

As the speciality here is yakitori, it didn’t take long to land on our first favourite, the tsukune with egg yolk — a minced chicken and pork skewer. Don’t be shy about using the meat skewer to whisk the egg yolk thoroughly; it adds a slick of richness to the piping hot meat.

We also enjoyed the chicken shoulder, dotted with yuzu pepper. The saltiness was spot-on, while the yuzu pepper lends just the slightest tang and mild heat.

Beyond the skewers

While Sapoto’s skewers are its main act, there are other highlights that showcase chef Desmond’s finesse.

The uni truffle brioche — a golden bite topped with creamy sea urchin, truffle shavings, and gold dust — is as indulgent as it sounds, yet balanced and clean on the palate.

Another winner: The chef’s recommendation of delicate Hokkaido scallop enveloped in seaweed. Before serving, chef Desmond sears the scallops with a hot coal and cradles them in a seaweed wrap. If you are tempted to take photos of this, be quick, as the seaweed wilts quickly under the heat of the scallop.

Be sure to savour the umami-rich contrast of juicy scallop and crisp seaweed.

There’s also the tontoro (pork jowl) with wasabi pickle. A standout bite that’s satisfyingly fatty with a flash of wasabi heat to give it a rounded, moreish finish.

The final main is a comforting chicken ramen. With a broth that’s simmered for three to four hours with chicken bones, an assortment of vegetables, and salt, it’s a hearty way to finish the evening.

With only salt as seasoning, the collagen-rich broth is impressively flavourful — a compliment we gladly shared with chef Desmond.

Our final impression

While many other omakase concepts focus on fresh seafood, at Sapoto, the binchotan grill reigns. It’s all about simplicity, technique, and quality ingredients.

Perfect for date nights or intimate catch-ups with friends, Sapoto is a solid addition to the yakitori scene. And once lunch service launches, it might just become one of the best-value omakase deals in town.

This was an invited tasting.

For more ideas on what to eat, read our stories on Fat Cow’s S$88 13-course sushi omakase and free-flow sake option, and 17 famous hawkers to try at Chinatown Complex Food Centre.

You can book a table at Sapoto via Chope, then a ride to the restaurant at Amara Hotel.