How Khao Kaeng owner JJ is putting Isan and southern Thai cuisine on Singapore’s food map

Looking to try Thai cuisine beyond your usual pad thai, green curry or pork basil rice? Tucked away along Macpherson Road, Khao Kaeng sets itself apart by spotlighting bold, lesser-known dishes from Isan (northeastern) and southern Thailand. These regions are known for their rich spices, tangy broths and unapologetically punchy flavours. 

Behind the restaurant is Jetiya Buphasiri, 41, affectionately known as JJ. JJ is a former university professor from Bangkok who left the world of academia and moved to Singapore in search of better opportunities. 

A single mother of two, she has channelled her roots and resilience into Khao Kaeng, serving dishes that reflect both her personal journey and her culinary heritage.

With dishes such as gai tai nam (chicken under water) to gaeng som deep fried fish and mango crispy fish salad, Khao Kaeng offers a comforting, yet eye-opening introduction to regional Thai cooking.

JJ’s F&B journey

With a masters degree in education management, JJ never imagined she’d leave behind her life as a professor at Bangkok’s Sripathum University for Singapore. But the move was a necessary one, as financial pressures made it difficult to support her family. 

“I had to make the tough decision to leave my hometown in Isan and move to Singapore in 2015,” she says. “It wasn’t an easy decision, but I knew that opportunities here would give me a chance to better support my family in the long run.”

Over the years, JJ took on all kinds of jobs, from working at a money changer, to front-of-house roles at restaurants. 

Back then, she never stopped dreaming of a business she could call her own. That dream finally materialised this year with the opening of Khao Kaeng in January. 

The restaurant came about because JJ realised she needed flexibility to raise her children, especially her six-year-old daughter Alisa, who was born and now lives here. Her 10-year-old son, Titiphon, remains in Thailand under the care of family members.

“I regularly fly back to Thailand to see my son,” she says. “I often work until night and take a late flight back home, using my off-days just to see him.”

Her daughter now calls the restaurant her second home. “She often spends time in the restaurant with me after school, and even helps hand out flyers to promote our food to passers-by,” JJ adds.

Bold flavours at Khao Kaeng 

Khao Kaeng specialises in lesser-known dishes from southern and Isan (Northeastern) Thailand — the kind JJ grew up eating, with their spicy, salty, and often uncompromising flavours.

JJ’s love for cooking such dishes started early. “While growing up in Thailand, my family and I spent a lot of time cooking together,” she recalls. “Cooking is something that brings me comfort and joy, and I want to share that with customers.”

Given that many Singaporeans have been exposed to Bangkok-style Thai food such as pad thai and tom yum soup, JJ is looking to introduce customers to the diversity of Thai cuisine. 

She adds: “Much of the Thai food you see in Singapore has been modified for local tastebuds. That’s why I wanted to start Khao Kaeng  — to show people that Thailand has a breadth of different flavours and dishes beyond familiar favourites.”

One signature dish is the gai tai nam (S$19), also known as chicken under water. 

“The dish is especially meaningful to me and brings back memories of home,” says JJ. “It showcases a traditional Isan-style marinating technique, where the chicken is submerged in a fragrant spice broth, before being wok-fried with lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, garlic, and chilli.”

The Khao Kaeng mango crispy fish salad (S$29) is another signature, a bright and playful option that marries tangy mango slivers with a sweet-spicy dressing and deep-fried fish.

“It’s vibrant, refreshing, and a great example of authentic Thai flavours,” she says.

Then there’s the gaeng som deep fried fish (S$28), a staple dish in JJ’s hometown. The sour-spicy dish typically comes as a tamarind-based curry or soup with steamed fish, but Khao Kaeng has added its own twist by using crispy deep fried fish. The fish is deep fried first, before adding in the curry.

“The distinctively satisfying sour taste of tamarind with the crispiness of the fish always brings back memories of comforting home-cooked meals,” says JJ.

Even the drinks reflect her roots. “The Pink Milk (S$4) is a drink that kids in Thailand love,” says JJ. “ It is actually made without tea (sala syrup and milk is used), making it suitable for kids and those who prefer less of a kick in their drink.”

What we tried

During our visit to Khao Kaeng,  we had quite the feast, as JJ introduced a selection of dishes designed for sharing. These are some of our favourites.

Of course, we had to try the gai tai nam — the dish JJ was most excited to share.

“The familiar aroma and flavours of this dish always remind me of my family kitchen growing up,” JJ says.

Our verdict? The dish is richly savoury, perfumed with aromatic Thai herbs and just the right amount of spice. The chicken was moist and flavourful with a gentle kick, definitely something different from your standard Thai fare in Singapore.

Another standout was the stir-fried lemongrass with prawns (S$17). The prawns came in a secret house-made lemongrass sauce with salad. We found the prawns to be fresh with a good bite, and the sauce leaned savoury with subtle citrusy brightness.

The Khao Kaeng mango crispy fish salad was well-executed, too. The tasty fish is a standout, fried until crisp, with a generous amount of flesh

Thick and springy, the prawn cakes (S$10 for four pieces) are made in-house with real chunks of prawn, squid, and fish. We enjoyed this dish too as it had a generous amount of both prawn and squid. “Usually at restaurants they don’t offer a lot of fillings in the prawn cakes, but we’ve added larger portions,” JJ says.

My personal favourite was the moo ping (S$7 for three skewers). The barbeque pork is incredibly juicy and tender, with just the right amount of fat to keep things rich, without being greasy. Flavour-wise, it hits a comforting balance of sweet, salty, and smoky.  

We rounded off the meal with the thirst-quenching Pink Milk. Sweet and creamy, this is a fun version of milk tea that both kids and adults will love, especially if you’re avoiding caffeine.

The high cost of passion

Like many small business owners, JJ is brutally honest about the financial challenges. In fact, she says that she faces the threat of closure each month, as it has been a struggle to keep her business going. 

“I had help from an investor and I borrowed an additional S$25,000 from a friend to get started,” she adds. “The restaurant cost almost S$200,000 to set up, and has only started to break even after 6 months. Rising costs, competition, and the uncertainty of foot traffic all make it hard to sustain the business — every month feels like a race to survive.”

To keep food affordable for diners, JJ has introduced lunch sets from just S$8, where customers get to choose from eight classic dishes (such as tom yum soup and basil chicken), paired with a free glass of either ⁠lemongrass tea or homemade ice tea.

“We don’t just think about profits, but hope customers will keep coming back, and have tried to keep pricing as affordable as possible,” says JJ. 

JJ admits there are days she wants to give up. “However, when I think of my children and the better life I can provide them just by working here in Singapore, it gives me the strength to keep on going.”

For JJ,  Khao Kaeng is more than a restaurant. “It’s a very personal venture because it’s a reflection of my roots and where I came from,” she muses. “I hope customers leave with a deeper appreciation of Thai food, and I’m glad to share these flavours with more people in Singapore.” 

Despite her struggles, JJ remains quietly hopeful. “I’m so happy I get to do this — I consider Singapore my second home,” she says. “This restaurant is in a way the culmination of my Singapore dream.”

If you love Thai food, be sure to check out Fi Woodfire Thai and Nampla, too!