Il Toro Woodfire Grill reignites chef Drew Nocente’s passion for fire and flavour in Telok Ayer

There’s a certain theatre to fire — the flicker, the hiss, the moment when ingredient meets flame and alchemy happens.

At Il Toro Woodfire Grill, this primal element takes centre-stage in Telok Ayer. Nearly every dish passes through the grill, kissed by smoke from apple, orange, and ironbark woods — each adding its own quiet complexity.

Opened in September, Il Toro marks the latest concept from AC Concepts, the team behind Cenzo and Chicco Pasta Bar. Where its sister restaurants lean into contemporary Italian warmth, Il Toro crackles with Australian swagger — a confident blend of heritage, precision, and that untranslatable instinct for cooking over fire.

Chef Drew Nocente’s fiery new chapter

At the helm is chef Drew Nocente, whose career has taken him from the butchery-lined streets of his Italian family heritage to the paddocks of Queensland and, eventually, Singapore’s culinary spotlight.

Born and raised in Stanthorpe, Australia, to a family of butchers and farmers, chef Drew grew up around smokehouses and whole-animal cooking — lessons that became the backbone of his craft.

His professional journey began in Australia before leading him to renowned kitchens around the world, where he honed a philosophy rooted in sustainability and respect for produce. In Singapore, he earned widespread recognition as the chef-owner of Salted & Hung, where his dedication to nose-to-tail dining and cured meats shaped one of the city’s most distinctive culinary voices.

With Il Toro, chef Drew comes full circle — fusing his Italian roots, Australian influences, and enduring love for wood-fire cooking into a singular vision. The restaurant’s name, meaning “the bull” in Italian, pays homage to his family farm, and the strength and humility of the craft.

What makes Il Toro particularly compelling is just how involved chef Drew is in every element of the experience — not only the food, but also the drinks. He personally curated the restaurant’s cocktail and wine programme, from the cocktails to the wine list.

The cocktail line-up is built around rum, whisky, and gin, weaving in fire-roasted elements to echo the grill’s spirit, while the wine list champions low-intervention Italian and Australian producers, chosen for how seamlessly they pair with flame-driven cuisine.

Each pour and pairing extends the same narrative of smoke, balance, and craft that defines the kitchen.

The menu itself is deliberately structured for flexibility. Diners can go a la carte, or opt for the Chef’s Feast — a generous tasting selection designed for the table. Starters lean towards flame-kissed small plates ideal for sharing; the “From the Coals” section celebrates premium cuts such as wagyu tri tip, lamb ribs, and turbot, all kissed by the wood-fire.

Rounding it off are sides and desserts that echo the restaurant’s mantra, with simple ingredients elevated through the transformative power of heat.

When fire becomes the muse

If Salted & Hung was chef Drew’s meditation on resourcefulness, Il Toro is his celebration of abundance — where fire takes the lead and ingredients dance in harmony with smoke.

From cocktails that echo the scent of the grill, to mains that showcase the precision of flame, the experience here is one of controlled chaos — raw, primal, and deeply refined.

Before ordering any food, start with the Queensland Storm (S$18), a spiced rum-based cocktail mixed with grapefruit and ginger beer. With just the right touch of fizziness, this refreshing highball primes the palate perfectly for what’s to come.

We began with the focaccia, beef fat candle (S$8), a playful yet indulgent opener that sets the tone for the meal. The candle, made of rendered beef fat, slowly melts into a pool of umami-rich oil as you tear into the warm focaccia.

The trick is to catch it mid-melt — when the fat is semi-liquid and coats the bread just so. It’s a wickedly satisfying bite, rich without being cloying, and an ingenious way to showcase the restaurant’s flame-forward philosophy.

Just when we thought beef fat couldn’t surprise us further, the Coffin Bay oysters, yuzu koshu & smoked beef fat (S$6 per piece) arrived to re-define expectations.

Traditionally a clean, briny appetiser, this version adds layers of smoke and citrus, transforming the oyster into something far more complex. Bright yuzu koshu cuts through the fat, while preserving the oyster’s oceanic sweetness — a flavour combination that lingers long after the shell is empty.

At S$6 a pop, you’ll want at least a pair.

From land to sea, the sea bream, Amalfi lemon, bone reduction & caviar (S$22) showcases chef Drew’s finesse with the grill. It’s delicate yet assertive, with each sliver of raw fish infused with subtle savouriness from the bone reduction.

The Amalfi lemon lends a zesty lift, while pops of caviar deliver bursts of salinity, making every bite sing.

It’s a dish that catches you off guard — elegant, balanced, and quietly confident.

Continuing the seafood streak, the octopus, nduja, burnt chive butter & miso corn (S$36) is another stellar example of Il Toro’s creative edge. The generously sized octopus leg is tender yet bouncy, imbued with a gentle smokiness that plays beautifully with the spicy nduja.

But the scene-stealer is the miso corn — sweet, crunchy, and surprisingly addictive. Instead of leaning too heavily into umami, it adds lightness to an otherwise rich plate, turning this dish into an unexpected triumph.

By this point, pacing becomes essential because the Blackmore wagyu MS9+ tri tip (S$78 for 200g) is a showstopper. This cut — exclusive to Il Toro — is sourced from one of Australia’s most prestigious wagyu producers.

Served in limited quantities, it’s everything you want from a premium steak: Intensely marbled, meltingly tender, and grilled to perfection over Australian ironbark.

Each slice reveals a balance of crisp char and luscious fat, best enjoyed with a swipe of the green garlic puree made from basil, baby spinach, and parsley. The herbaceous brightness cuts through the richness beautifully, tying everything together without stealing the spotlight.

And finally, dessert. The mint slice al fuoco (S$16) closes the meal on a theatrical note — a nod to chef Drew’s Australian roots and his playful side.

Inspired by the nostalgic mint-slice biscuit, this semi-freddo is layered with smoked cheese ganache and meringue, pressed tableside using a vintage cast-iron tool. The result is a hot-meets-cold experience that’s both decadent and light.

While you’d expect the mint to dominate, it’s elegantly restrained, leaving you refreshed rather than overwhelmed — a fitting finale to a meal that knows exactly how to leave an impression.

A new flame burns in Telok Ayer

Il Toro may wear the polish of a modern grill restaurant, but beneath the sleek wood-and-brass facade lies something more primal — a reverence for fire and flavour that feels almost instinctive.

Every element — from the cocktails to the char — carries chef Drew Nocente’s unmistakable fingerprint: Meticulous, deeply personal, and unafraid to experiment.

It’s the kind of place that reminds you why fire will always hold our fascination, because in the right hands, it can cook and transform.

This was a hosted tasting.

For more ideas on what to eat, check out Binge, a new Muslim-owned sandwich spot in Tiong Bahru, and also check out our 15 picks for comforting bak kut teh in Singapore.