Review: Station by Kotuwa brings bold Sri Lankan flavours and spicy vibes to Telok Ayer

Sri Lankan cuisine in Singapore has long existed in the margins, and mostly in the Little India vicinity. They’re there, but you really have to look for them — small eateries such as Navarisi and Raja Bojun, where you’ll find delicious mutton kottus and vegetarian eggplant curries, and Kunthaville, where delicious Ceylonese sweets abound. 

There’s of course Kotuwa, the slightly more upscale restaurant that launched in 2020, where chef Rishi Naleendra (of two Michelin-starred restaurant Cloudstreet) showcases elevated Sri Lankan plates, slowly putting Sri Lankan food on the minds of Singaporeans. With the opening of Station by Kotuwa just last month, the journey continues.

The backstory

I’d describe Station by Kotuwa as the more casual, high-energy offshoot of Kotuwa. Like its older brother, Station pays tribute to chef-owner Rishi Naleendra’s heritage, but stands on its own with a fresh menu and fun vibes.

The space itself is not new to Rishi. For years, the 21 Boon Tat Street address has been a creative platform for him, undergoing several iterations — first Cheek by Jowl, then Cheek Bistro, and more recently, Fool Wine Bar. Now, he goes full circle with a menu designed around playful ingredient combinations and a more casual approach to Sri Lankan dining.

Instead of a more formal family-style dining, we build our own meal from easy options of snacks, starters, mains, as well as sides and condiments. There are neon lights with cheeky catchlines, the seating is mixed — banquettes for intimate catch-ups, high tables for more casual gatherings — and an open kitchen that sends a wave of energy rippling across the space, as well as an eclectic playlist of funky, jazzy east-west tunes I find myself bobbing to throughout dinner.

Our verdict

Despite having been to nearly all of this address’s previous incarnations, there’s barely anything that strikes me as recycled and reused. Instead, Station feels like a brand new concept — an effortlessly cool place to gather for dates, after-work drinks, and even a quick lunch. Permeating the entire space is warm and genuine service marked by eager check-ins and cocktail pairing recommendations. 

What’s most compelling though, is that Station doesn’t simply rehash Kotuwa’s star dishes. The menu here, though smaller, is filled with spice-laden small plates full of personality and thoughtful, experimental cocktails that I could really get behind.

What it’s good for

Take the banana blossom cutlets (S$14 for four), for example, showcasing the banana hearts that are used so much in Sri Lankan cuisine. Brilliantly fried with fine panko crumbs, it gives way to a chunky, yet flaky blossom and mashed potato centre with a mildly sweet floralness and earthiness. Everything sits on a fragrant curry leaf aioli that’s complex and irresistible.

Then there’s the chilled rasam with yoghurt and tomatoes (S$14), a tomato- and tamarind-rich South Indian soup of sorts, chilled gazpacho-style. It’s also simmered with warm spices such as cumin, mustard seeds, turmeric, and coriander, with a cooling layer of yoghurt below. Some mustard oil on top and sweet cherry tomatoes round off this very appetising starter.

Kaliya is a Malay curry often made with chicken liver, which is the basis for the kaliya chicken liver and egg roti (S$14). The dish is all about depth — velvety, coconutty, and caramelised gravy cooked together with chicken liver, then topped with fried onions, raw shallots, and crispy curry leaves. The buttery liver might taste a bit gamey and iron-rich to some, but give it a try anyway. This is the kind of dish that should be eaten with your hands — I’d suggest grabbing a piece of soft egg-and-onion roti (more chewy than crispy) to scoop this up this standout dish.

If you like tripe, like I do, you’re in for a treat with the babath crispy tripe (S$7), a well-priced plate of meaty tripe slivers encased in a crispy and golden layer of salty-smoky heat — even better with a squeeze of lime for acidity and a dollop of smoked chilli aioli.

For mains, I got a pan-roasted red grouper (S$36) sitting in a pool of luscious Sri Lankan mustard curry. The fish has beautifully-crisped skin and firm, well-seasoned flesh, but it’s the rich mustard curry (salty, tangy, and slightly spicy) that makes this really interesting. Some charred kailan provide a smoky and slightly bitter counterpoint, balancing out the dish beautifully.

A meal at Station isn’t complete without additional plain roti (S$4) with its soft, lightly-charred layers and traditional accompaniments to complement the richer and heavier dishes. The pol sambol (S$5) is a bright orange mix of grated coconut, lime, and red chilli that’s great with roti, or on top of your proteins. Add some punch with the wambatu moju (S$5), which is basically a sour-sweet eggplant pickle I found myself spooning onto everything.

You can choose not to drink at Station, but if you do, you’re in for a good time. Aside from a sizeable menu of artisanal Sri Lankan arrack (a sort of distilled spirit made from the fermented sap of coconut flowers or sugarcane), and some accessible wines (available by bottle or glass), there’s a cheeky selection of cocktails inspired by Sri Lanka’s famous train stations.

We try the podi menike (S$22), Station’s take on the espresso martini featuring arrack, coffee and kithul — a natural sweetener from the sap of the native kithul tree. It’s a bold combination with a bittersweet, smoky flavour that lingers on my tongue, with the kithul adding a particularly subtle umami touch.

There’s also the udaya devi (S$22), made with Trinco Ceylon Dry Gin, green chilli, and lime. The chilli heat slowly sneaks up on you, which adds a thrilling kick to the botanical notes of the gin (itself made with coconut blossom arrack). This is a tropical concoction that’s a lot of fun to drink.

What it could improve on

The falooda (S$12) is one of those things that’s quite difficult to describe — if you ask me, I’d say it’s bandung meets Thai red ruby. This Sri Lankan classic has everything from red agar jelly, condensed milk and basil seeds, to sago, vermicelli noodles, rose syrup, and nata de coco, so you can only imagine the number of textures inside. It’s already a somewhat sweet drink, but the addition of vanilla ice cream really makes the whole thing quite sickly sweet. 

A staff member tells us to stir the whole thing together — I can appreciate the idea, but my dining partner liked this a lot more than I did. Having said that, I’m aware this might just be personal preference, and it’s a minor quibble in what is an otherwise electrifying experience at Station by Kotuwa.

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? Absolutely.

Is a reservation necessary? Highly recommended!

How to get there? Station by Kotuwa is a two-minute walk from Telok Ayer MRT Station Exit A.

Nearest MRT: Telok Ayer

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.

For more eats in Telok Ayer, check out our top picks in the area, or Gamtan, a new Korean spot for your BBQ cravings.

Enjoy up to 50% off when you dine with GrabFood Dine Out.

You can also book a ride to Station by Kotuwa at Telok Ayer.