Review: Movida, the Melbourne tapas import offering a creative taste of Spain

It’s not hard to see why Spanish cuisine never goes out of fashion in Singapore, really. There’s something beautiful about the convivial, communal experience where plates of tapas, paella, and jamon iberico are shared and conversations flow over a bit (or ideally, a lot) of red wine.

I had the opportunity recently to dive deep into the lively world of Movida, a new transplant from Melbourne at our very own Raffles City Singapore. Its Singapore outpost lies tucked behind a wooden door on a stone-tiled “courtyard” — push past those doors for a taste of its rich flavours, warmth, and touch of theatricality on its plates. Here’s the lowdown from our visit:

The backstory

Movida’s story actually started some 6,000km away in Melbourne in 2003. Spanish-born chef Frank Camorra and his team first transformed a rundown Italian restaurant into a vibrant Spanish bar, inspired by Spain’s bodegas and dining rooms.

Spanish food had already gained popularity in Australia in the 1990s, but it was Movida that was credited with re-introducing Australians to colourful tapas culture.

Over the years, Movida expanded to multiple locations in Australia — along Victoria’s Great Ocean Road and Sydney — to New Zealand, and now Singapore.

Turns out, they were brought here in a partnership with the Surrey Hills Group.

In fact, Movida is one of three new openings at Raffles City by the group, alongside Andre Chiang’s Bon Broth and ramen chain Mensho Tokyo.

Our verdict

For the most part, Movida Singapore is a hit. The tapas are executed with finesse, the seafood is fresh and succulent, and the hospitality and energy is palpable in the air.

Whether Movida Singapore manages to replicate that Melbourne magic,however, I can’t quite say. But what I can say is that it certainly does a lot to deliver a spirited Spanish experience, with some tweaks tailored for the local palate, too.

Movida Singapore’s setting, with its low plastered ceilings and warm wooden interiors, is so unique it makes you wonder if you’re still in a mall.

We sat in front of the bustling open kitchen where chefs garnished the tapas and seared seafood to perfection. Coupled with the friendly and attentive staff who took good care of us, we’re glad to say, Melbournian or not, it made for quite the experience, regardless.

Though it must be said that this isn’t the kind of place you’re likely to visit frequently — a hearty dinner for two with drinks can quickly set you back about S$200. But a celebratory meal or the occasional night out with friends? Salud.

What it’s good for

Movida Singapore’s classic burrata and sliced tomato salad is nice and all, but the burrata ($18.80) here, served with asadillo salad and crispy pan coca is outstanding.

The cheese, while a tad firmer than most burratas I’ve tried, is creamy and fresh, and the asadillo salad of roasted peppers and tomatoes provides a smoky-sweet counterpoint. 

Add to that the crispy pan coca, a golden, wafer-thin flatbread, and you have the perfect vessel for scooping everything up. It’s a simple, yet elevated dish to kick things off.

The bomba (S$8 per piece) is a Catalan comfort food that somehow feels indulgent at Movida.

The tapas is brilliantly fried, as you’ll see from the finely crusted exterior. Inside, there’s a creamy potato filling stuffed with spiced chorizo and topped with a bold and spicy red pepper aioli that makes each bite a mouthful of spice and umami.

Crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside, these bombas are utterly addictive.

If for some reason you must only get one tapas, make it the tartaleta (S$8 per piece). Imagine a wafer-thin brik (a Tunisian-style pastry) tart filled with a velvety chicken liver parfait and a brown sugar shell that’s been bruleed to glassy perfection.

The caramelised top gives way to a creamy, decadent centre that’s luxurious without being overly heavy. A final touch of verjuice (an acidic juice made from pressing sour fruits) jelly adds a touch of sweet acidity.

I’ve had my fair share of chicken liver dishes, and I’m not exaggerating when I say this takes the top spot.

Eventually, the restaurant’s signature dish, the cecina (S$32), arrives on our table. It’s quite the showstopper — thin slices of cured air-dried Australian wagyu, deeply marbled, rich with umami and it practically melts on the tongue.

The staff will tell you to mix it up with the impossibly light truffle-infused potato foam and silky poached egg, tying everything together in a luscious embrace. No wonder it was once awarded “dish of the year” by an Australian magazine.

Sweet tooth folks will be glad to know that Movida Singapore absolutely nails its desserts.

After all the smoky and rich things we’ve eaten, the arroz con leche (S$14) makes for a welcome counterpoint. It’s a refreshing reimagining of the classic Spanish rice pudding, featuring a creamy cinnamon-spiced sweet rice base and roasted pineapple that brings a subtle tangy sweetness.

Along with the fragrant rose rice ice cream and crispy rice cracker on top, it’s a beautifully balanced dessert that delivers an exciting interplay of silky and crunchy textures and flavours that evolve with each bite.

Then there’s the elegant flan (S$12) — smooth, wobbly, and full of eggy richness.

The body of the flan isn’t very sweet, which is where the caramelised sugar syrup comes in, starting with a sharp, burnt sugar taste before dissipating on the tongue.

But the real surprise comes in the form of the crunchy pestinos pastries, laced with warm spices and a hint of honeyed sweetness. It’s a delicate balancing act that just works so well.

What it could improve on

There’s usually not much to dislike about dishes with scorched bottoms — Chinese claypot rice, Japanese donabes, and paellas. Except that the paella de senorita (S$75) is not quite the showstopper its premium price suggests.

For starters, the rice in this dish is a tad more moist than what you’d find at traditional places — like a risotto that’s lost its way.

It’s not totally bad though, as plenty of flavour has seeped into the rice — garlic oil, saffron, and the deep, tangy notes of salmorreta, a type of tomato-heavy sofrito. There are also sweet roasted capsicum and chunks of smoked prawns, barramundi and calamari.

However, while the ingredients are tender and fresh, the dish still feels a touch underwhelming for its hefty price tag. Perhaps more premium ingredients and innovation could transform this from an overpriced main to a must-order.

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? Generally yes, but the space gets a bit loud when packed.

Is a reservation necessary? Strongly recommended!

How to get there? Movida is on the side of the mall that’s closest to Raffles City Tower. Raffles City Singapore is connected to Exit A of City Hall MRT Station.

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.

For the latest eats, read about new budget hotpot concept Hi Hotpot, or nostalgic Hong Kong-style restaurant Lo Hey HK Seafood. Alternatively, check out the newest openings in Singapore here.

Enjoy up to 50% off when you dine with GrabFood Dine Out.

You can also book a ride to Movida Singapore to try its Spanish fare.