Shiok maki fans: The famous roll is now available at Torio, but its omakase is the real showstopper
Have you heard of Torio Japanese Restaurant? Probably not many would be familiar with this under-the-radar restaurant.
On the other hand, we bet most people would have heard of the Shiok maki.
Honestly, it might not be hyperbole to claim that most people above the age of 25 and with an affinity for Japanese cuisine would have heard of the famed dish.
In Singapore’s competitive dining scene, trends come and go. But this is one of the few original creations that managed to leave an indelible mark on diners.
The Shiok maki, a sushi roll served with torched cheese sauce, was the signature of the now-defunct Koh Grill & Sushi Bar at Wisma Atria and drew in perennially long lines.
Sadly, fate had other plans as Koh announced its closure in 2024 after 17 years, leaving long-time fans bereft of its beloved sushi roll.
Don’t despair though: It’s now available at Torio Japanese Restaurant, where the original creator of the Shiok maki is one of the co-owners.
Return of the ma-king
The Shiok maki is somewhat of a household name here in Singapore, but the creator’s name isn’t as well-known. It’s chef Steve Quek, 43, a veteran Japanese chef with more than 20 years of experience under his belt.
The Torio chef’s culinary career first started in 2002 with Koh-San, the predecessor of Koh Grill and Sushi Bar, which was located in a food court at Bugis.
It was there where he came up with the cheese sauce-drenched Shiok maki, circa 2006.
He stayed with Koh Grill until 2011 and eventually opened Torio in 2021 with two other partners (hence the name, which sounds like “trio”).
I guess the burning question is: How did he come up with this iconic sushi roll?
“Back then, Japanese food was very traditional and I wanted to break conventions. You know how we Singaporeans like saucy things?” Steve recalls.
He adds: “The idea for the Shiok maki was actually based on the salad prawn ball, a classic Chinese dish!”
To top it off, he decided to jazz it up with a touch of aburi blaze. At the time, torching wasn’t as prevalent as it is these days.
Given the dish was created over a decade ago, has Steve seen a need to refresh the iconic dish? Some tweaks have been made to Torio’s rendition of the Shiok maki, he says.
He adds: “I added some sakura ebi to give it an extra crunch.” So just a small modification, then.
We ask its creator: What about it makes the Shiok maki so well-loved and enduring? He says the key is in the signature cheese sauce and how the unagi just melts in the mouth.
How does the Torio version stack up, though? This will probably hit the spot, according to our colleague who grew up with the dish, assuring us that Torio’s Shiok maki is just as “shiok” as ever.
The unagi is soft and luscious, the sakura ebi ensures every bite is addictively crunchy and the sauce is rich, creamy and bolstered with an intoxicating smoky fragrance.
Those missing the dish should head down, as Steve welcomes fans to swing by and satiate their cravings: “I was very surprised it got so popular back then. Since Koh Grill is closed and some people were asking, I decided to bring it back so they can enjoy it.”
Omakase, onegaishimasu
While some might argue that the Shiok maki is chef Steve’s crowning achievement, it has been eons since his Koh Grill days and he has plenty more to offer now as a chef.
Rather than just pigging out on the Shiok maki, he strongly recommended we sit down for what Torio is best known for: Its omakase (from S$98).
Many omakases stick to the tried-and-tested, mainly serving the classics, but Torio likes to go against convention, says Steve.
That much was made clear when the meal opened with a unique octopus roe — something we’d not seen before.
What does it taste like? Well, it’s briny and silky, bursting in the mouth with a distinct gelatinous mouthfeel. It’s also topped with uni, which further accentuates the texture and briny flavours.
The second item of our Torio omakase was another interesting one — a combination of in-season shirako (cod milt), noresore (baby sea eel) and shima aji (striped horse mackerel).
As a fan of the much-misunderstood shirako, we thought this was sublime. Exceedingly fresh, clean and blissfully creamy, it was only lightly seasoned so you can enjoy more of its naturally subtle taste.
It’s accompanied by delightfully slurpable baby eel — almost like tiny strands of velvety konjac noodles.
Torio’s creative touch
It’s not just about ingredient curation, either. Torio also puts creative spins using cooking techniques — seen in dishes such as the octopus sashimi and firefly squid with lobster oil.
This dish features tender, bouncy octopus as the base, upon which Steve pours a splash of hot homemade lobster oil that endows the dish with a gratifying umami.
Even for the sushi courses, diners get to see such touches on the botan ebi nigiri, which is torched after being crowned with a dollop of Torio’s homemade ebi miso.
The luscious shrimp is great, but it’s the robust seafood richness of the miso that bolsters the crustacean’s flavours, and in turn elevates the ensemble.
That said, Torio also has a penchant for peculiar neta (the sushi topping) choices.
While omakase diners can expect timeless classics such as kinmedai (golden-eyed snapper), they might also find chef Steve adding a bit of spice by throwing in unique neta such as mikan tai (seabream fed with orange) that was brimming with citrus fragrance.
If you ask us, the omakase is probably the most impressive facet of our Torio experience.
Shiok maki fans, hear us out: Maybe you can swing by for a portion of the Shiok maki, while also getting pampered with an omakase dinner?
This was an invited tasting.
For more ideas on what to eat, read our stories on the viral affordable izakaya at Fortune Centre and famous celebrity chef Andre Chiang’s atas individual hotpot concept.
Enjoy up to 50% off when you dine with GrabFood Dine Out.
You can make a reservation at Torio Japanese Restaurant via Chope.
You can also book a ride to Torio Japanese Restaurant to get a taste of the iconic Shiok maki.
Torio Japanese Restaurant
Link Hotel, 01-01, 50 Tiong Bahru Road
Nearest MRT: Havelock and Tiong Bahru
Open: Tuesday to Sunday (11:45am to 2:30pm, 6pm to 10pm)
Link Hotel, 01-01, 50 Tiong Bahru Road
Nearest MRT: Havelock and Tiong Bahru
Open: Tuesday to Sunday (11:45am to 2:30pm, 6pm to 10pm)
Evan Mua
Author
Evan started off writing about food on Instagram, before joining outlets such as Buro and Confirm Good to pursue his passion. His best work usually comes after his first whisky shot in the morning.
Read More
