Review: Towa’s rare Japanese dishes, such as tsukemen, finally gets their due recognition

Since the launch of Japanese chain restaurants, such as Sushi Tei and Sakae Sushi in Singapore in the 1990s, few could have predicted how Japanese cuisine would evolve in Singapore’s dining landscape. 

Today, it seems like Singaporeans have moved well beyond the standard sushi dish, embracing everything from specialised ramen joints to high-end omakase experiences. The city’s diners increasingly seek out intimate establishments offering authentic experiences that transport them back to their treasured Japan trips. 

In this maturing landscape, Towa, which launched in 2021, has quietly established itself beneath the mainstream radar — at least, until recently. 

While the restaurant already had a loyal following amongst those in the know, the turning point came when a Japanese influencer living in Singapore endorsed Towa’s tsukemen as the “best in Singapore”, propelling this tucked-away spot to social media virality. 

Named after the Japanese word for “eternity”, Towa’s four-years-and-counting tenure at Carpenter Street, is a feat that speaks volumes, especially for an area that is notorious for its restaurant turnovers.

The backstory

Ironically enough, tsukemen is not Towa’s main selling point. 

Towa started as a dinner-only teppanyaki omakase featuring seasonal ingredients imported directly from Japan, and only expanded its lunch repertoire last year. 

In a bid to bring across a more accurate depiction of Japanese food culture to Singapore, the team curated a lunch menu based on dishes the team behind Towa loved and missed from home, but couldn’t find locally — a thoughtful and personal touch that offers insight into Towa’s ethos as an establishment

The hope was that these dishes, prepared with the care and meticulous characteristic of Japanese hospitality, would evoke a sense of nostalgia with every bite. 

Our verdict

At a glance, Towa’s lunch menu offers a compelling balance of quality, authenticity and reasonable pricing, making it a standout addition to Singapore’s Japanese dining landscape.

Its no-frills look, too, isn’t quite like the usual polished one you’d get at most of the newer Japanese restaurants here. 

The restaurant’s industrial-chic space comes with an open-kitchen concept, where the bar seats get unobstructed front-row views of the culinary ongoings. Along the back wall, shelves adorned with what looked like jars of pickled ume (Japanese plum) stand as a silent testimony to the meticulous craftsmanship behind Towa’s menu. 

What made the experience for us, was how nicely Towa has managed to capture that ineffable quality that distinguishes authentic Japanese fare, and its reverent dedication to the thoughtful execution of seemingly simple dishes. 

The price point may raise some eyebrows initially, but its quality and craftsmanship justifies the digits on the bill. 

What it’s good for

My visit was to investigate the Instagram-famous rich tonkotsu tsukemen with special all toppings (S$24), and that was what I zeroed in on. 

In a city teeming with ramen establishments, tsukemen remains surprisingly elusive in our culinary landscape, so I was relieved to finally have found a worthy contender to the versions I’ve had in Japan before.

Towa’s rendition of tsukemen, which only has 30 servings available daily, doesn’t play to the middle — it boldly asserts its character from the get-go. 

Perhaps this explains why, the coveted bar seats were already occupied by patrons hunched over the limited offering, when we arrived on the dot for our noon reservation, their expressions betraying quiet satisfaction.

The tsukemen noodles here are noticeably thicker than those from other notable ramen spots in Singapore. Resting on top of the noodles were two slices of roasted charsiu, two slices of special charsiu, nori, a ramen egg and an extra thick piece of menma. 

I later learned that these strands were meticulously engineered specifically to pair with Towa’s dipping broth — everything from flour composition to moisture content was calibrated for this purpose. 

And the precision has paid off. 

Dipping these strands into the broth, the broth clung to each strand with remarkable tenacity, which is not an aspect all ramen places can deliver on, much less tsukemen spots. Each slurp delivered a decadent flavour bomb that impressed me from the first mouthful. 

While there are many ways to prepare the dipping broth, Towa appears to have used fish as its base. It was slightly viscous with an earthy depth and a strong, complex oceanic undertone. 

The fishiness can be quite overwhelming to some, so we appreciate that vinegar was provided to mix into the broth, to cut through its richness. Conversely, umami enthusiasts can intensify their experience with the additional fish powder sitting nearby. 

The A5 wagyu beef sukiyaki (S$49.90) on its lunch menu also caught our eyes as an authentic version of this dish is difficult to find locally. 

After experiencing the real thing in Japan, I’ve developed something of a sukiyaki fixation, and off the bat, Towa’s version delivers a rather credible echo of that memory. 

The presentation is impressive: A traditional Nanbu cast iron pot containing vegetables and sukiyaki base, accompanied by raw egg, rice, miso soup, pickled vegetables, and salad. A striking plate of rosy pink meat arrives separately, commanding the attention of the table. 

At just under S$50, the quality of the meat provided in Towa’s sukiyaki dish surprised me pleasantly. A glance at the marbling hinted at its pedigree. I typically gravitate towards fattier cuts for sukiyaki as I enjoy the luxurious, buttery flavour of these cuts, so the marbling was a good sign of things to come. 

While this was the most expensive item on the menu, the generous slices of premium beef offer undeniable value. 

The ritual of whisking the raw egg, dipping the cooked beef into it, and savouring the resulting luxurious coating as the meat slides down your throat, is an unbeatable experience, with the yolk introducing a rich savouriness to counter the sweetness of the sukiyaki. 

I, for one, was able to partake in the ritual in its entirety here, with all the elements made readily available at the table.

Though the A5 wagyu beef here wasn’t quite as melt-in-your-mouth soft as the one I’ve had in Japan, this rendition’s quality-to-price ratio places it firmly on my radar, especially in a city where such authentic offerings remain scarce.

What it could improve on

Compared to the intense broth and springy noodles which left a good impression, the ingredients in the tsukemen, however, paled in comparison. 

The charsiu, while satisfying in texture, could have done with a more assertive marinade. I found myself repeatedly dunking the meat into the robust broth to compensate for its meeker flavour profile. 

Perhaps this neutrality is intentional to balance out the broth’s vigour, but I would’ve preferred being able to enjoy the meats on their own without relying on the broth for flavour.

Food misgivings aside, our main gripe was with the service we experienced there. Despite online reviews singing arias of hospitality, my experience was efficient, but perfunctory. 

I had made reservations for a larger group and was requested to pre-order our meals in advance. However, even before the whole group had arrived, the food began coming out once the first member of the party was seated.

A quick and simple check whether they could begin serving would have helped us settle in better.

The final bill also arrived uninitiated, accompanied by the payment machine, midway through our meal, which made for an unwelcome intermission, given the fact that there wasn’t even a waiting crowd outside to justify such haste. 

It wasn’t till the chef offered tea refills during a quieter moment in the restaurant, that I finally felt some semblance of warmth during the entire lunch service. 

Yet, despite the lukewarm service, Towa still merits a visit for its authentic renditions of rare Japanese dishes. 

With such promising flavours encountered so far, I’m willing to return to try the homemade wagyu omurice ($33) and other specialities, hoping that next time, the hospitality matches the excellence in the bowl.

Our quick takes 

Is it conducive to conversation? No. Seating is predominantly side-by-side, and plates are cleared promptly after one is done with the meal. 

Is a reservation necessary? As the tsukemen is limited to 30 bowls per day, make a reservation if you want to secure yourself a bowl. Do note that only groups of four and above can do so. 

How to get there? Towa is just a 10-minute walk away from Clarke Quay MRT station. 

HungryGoWhere paid for its meals at this restaurant for this review. 

For the latest eats, check out Binomio which has just shifted to Raffles Hotel Singapore, and Chijmes’ Almost Famous which has reopened after a revamp. 

Enjoy up to 50% off when you dine with GrabFood Dine Out.

You can also book a ride to Towa at Hong Kong Street.