Review: Milan Cafeteria is a mixed bag of flavours, much like its mixed fruit tart

While I don’t dine there much anymore, there’ll always be a place in my heart for our beloved budget-friendly chain Saizeriya, where a plate of spaghetti bolognese topped with dried herbs and powdered cheese can be had for less than an iced white at any of Singapore’s third-wave cafes. But I’m not writing about them today.

After a 13-year reign as what was probably Singapore’s cheapest “Italian” food,  Saizeriya has a new challenger. 

Last year, local F&B conglomerate Japan Food Holdings hopped on the bandwagon with the first Milan Shokudo outlet in Bishan’s Junction 8, before quickly expanding to two other locations at the Westgate and Northpoint shopping malls.

There’s clearly a demand for this sort of inauthentic Italian cuisine that’s injected with Japanese sensibilities. So the scene is set for the rise of Milan Shokudo’s sister brand Milan Cafeteria, which opened just a month ago in Tampines.

The backstory

Tucked away in a corner of Our Tampines Hub, Milan Cafeteria is the younger sibling of Milan Shokudo, which made its debut last year to similar fanfare. 

Both eateries fall under the ever-expanding empire of Japan Food Holdings, which also owns brands such as Afuri, Menya Musashi and Fruit Paradise. In fact, Milan Cafeteria is a curious hybrid of sorts, taking over the space previously used by Fruit Paradise, along with many of its tarts and cakes.

Our verdict

In the end, Milan Cafeteria is a mixed bag, much like the genre it belongs to. It’s not without its faults, but if you order wisely, you might just find yourself pleasantly surprised.

What sets this place apart from Milan Shokudo and even other similar budget-friendly restaurants is its option for fruit tarts – think strawberry, banana and the classic mixed fruit tart. From S$9.80 per slice, they don’t come cheap, though, and are among the most expensive things here.

Ambience-wise, Milan Cafeteria is relatively welcoming with a cosy, warm decor that you’ll remember from Milan Shokudo. It’s casual and fuss-free and for what we’re paying, I wouldn’t ask for anything more.

What it’s good for

I love takoyaki (when done properly) and I love pizza, but having the two together on a platter? It’s not the craziest thing that’s come out from Japan, I guess. 

The takoyaki pizza (S$12.90) is an audacious fusion that works against the odds. Like the pizzas from Milan Shokudo, the crust is flat and of the bready sort – not ideal, but good enough a canvas for the gooey batter balls.

Each takoyaki is somewhat crisp outside and doughy inside and each bite delivers a soft creaminess, as well as the firm chewiness of the octopus. It’s complemented by a drizzle of umami-rich okonomiyaki sauce and tangy Japanese mayo. It’s only missing a dusting of dancing bonito flakes, but this is still a fun, textural, dish that works well.

The squid ink scallop pasta (S$9.90) doesn’t look great, but it’s plenty delicious. You get a sweet brininess from the dark and rich squid ink and more depth of flavour from bouncy handmade linguine, which may have been cooked in a seafood stock.

There’s a few small scallops with the roe and frilly membrane still attached. The scallop texture is good, but they aren’t quite as flavourful as I’d hoped, possibly because it’s slathered in squid ink.

Otherwise, this comforting dish is a nod to the hearty fare you’d expect from a cosy diner in Japan.

There are regular fries here, but I say go for the mentai cream fries (S$6.90) for a more savoury and umami experience. The fries are the thick and chunky sort that’s not quite crunchy and fluffy, but still tender and full of potato goodness.

All of this is topped by a heap of thick, stringy cheese and a dollop of the salty roe. My only gripe is that the mentaiko easily sticks to the cheese, so you’ll want to mix everything up quickly once it’s served.

I’ve never tried Fruit Paradise’s mixed fruit tart (S$9.80) previously, but my first impression? It’s pretty alright. The tart is as much a visual feast as it is a tasty, satisfying dessert. A thick, buttery crust provides a solid base for two types of cream: A smooth, mildly sweet mango custard of sorts and another layer of milky whipped cream. 

It’s topped with ripe and juicy fruits – sliced up strawberries, oranges, mango, and blueberries, with a little glaze adding a little extra sweetness to complement the custard without overpowering it. It’s a simple and refreshing dessert that’s been honed over the years, and it shows.

If you’ve been to Saizeriya or Milan Shokudo, you’ll be familiar with the free-flow drinks bar. For S$3.90, you can get free-flow soft drinks (Pepsi, 7-Up, Mountain Dew, Mug root beer, iced lemon tea) as well as Milo and various coffees from a machine. That’s pretty good value if you ask me.

What it could improve on

When it comes to tomato soups, there are two main kinds: Creamy ones and broth-based ones. Whichever the case, the best ones are always thick with a rich tomato flavour. 

Milan Cafeteria’s tomato soup (S$3.90) is neither of those. Instead, you get a thin, watery soup that tastes very savoury but only a bit tangy, more like vegetable stock flavoured with tomato paste, than actual tomato soup. 

It’s oily too – a layer of oil leaves my lips feeling greasy – and has something of a spicy kick. It’s drinkable, but not enjoyable in the least.

At the end of the meal, I order the Basque cheesecake (S$8.20). It comes straight from the fridge within 30 seconds and after one glance, I feel like I’ve made a terrible mistake. 

The top of the cake is barely brown, let alone blackened (the sign of a proper Basque cheesecake) and the texture is dense rather than airy – more New York than Basque Country. 

The best Basque cheesecakes I’ve tried have a beautiful combination of tang, saltiness, and sweetness, coupled with the occasional brown butter notes. This one is cheesy, but one-dimensional.

Milan Cafeteria is a place with potential, but the consistency in food quality is a bit of a lottery – it’s a hit in some areas, but the execution for other dishes is rather lacklustre. A bit more attention to detail and it could be a regular dining destination for those living in the area!

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? Tables here are packed somewhat close together, so you might be overheard.

Is a reservation necessary? Nope!

How to get there? Milan Cafeteria is located at the corner of Our Tampines Hub (look out for the Starbucks near the entrance), a four-minute walk from Tampines MRT Station Exit F.

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.

If you’re having the munchies, check out this new European fusion stall in Bidadari, or Jungle, a new restaurant in the CBD specialising in regional Thai cuisine.

Milan Cafeteria is on the GrabFood Delivery Service and offers free delivery (up to S$3 off with GrabUnlimited).

Do explore the GrabFood Dine Out service for awesome deals.

You can also book a ride to try Milan Cafeteria for yourself.