Review: Kin Hoi’s spicy Thai-Teochew cockles and “Melting” beef make their way to Orchard Towers
- Kin Hoi has opened its second outlet in the basement of Orchard Towers, following the success of its Holland Village original
- The eatery specialises in Thai street food with quality ingredients, including its famous cockles and grilled meats
- Dishes we recommend include the spicy Thai-Teochew cockles, crayfish tanghoon, and “Melting” beef
Thai food isn’t so much a trend in Singapore as it is a permanent category of comfort food.
As it turns out, it’s also one of the top categories on my GrabFood home screen. There’ll always be a time in the week — after work, after drinks, after a particularly crowded MRT ride — when nothing sounds better than a plate of pad krapow or pad Thai (yes, I’m basic that way).
And now that Golden Mile Complex has closed, Orchard Towers stands as one of Thai food’s more enduring outposts here, with household names such as Korat Thai Cafe and Thai Tantric serving the Thai disco-goers and clubbing crowd for years and years now.
So it makes sense that Kin Hoi decided to open its second outlet in the basement of Orchard Towers.
The backstory
Kin Hoi first opened in Holland Village in 2021 as a retrofitted coffeeshop stall that quickly built a following for its flavour-forward grilled meats and signature cockles, courtesy of social media.
Over the years, Kin Hoi earned several accolades, including a Makansutra Divine rating and being recognised as Asia Excellent Winners Choice in 2023 and 2024 — according to its Instagram page.
Kin Hoi even expanded to outlets in Toa Payoh, Jurong, and VivoCity, though they’ve all since closed, leaving only the original stall, until now.
Compared to the original coffeshop setting in Holland Village, the Orchard Towers unit occupies a proper enclosed unit seating roughly 50 people, and in true street-stall energy, the decor is fuss-free: White plastic stools, wooden tables pushed together, and illustrated posters of Kin Hoi’s star dishes on the walls.
Our verdict
Kin Hoi Orchard is a good choice for authentically Thai dishes with hearty flavours and generous portions. It does the comforting, homely Thai classics, but you’ll find some other interesting dishes here without having to go to Bangkok, particularly its grilled meats and seafood dishes (such as its signature cockles).
There’s a lot to try, so come hungry and come ready to share with friends. This is probably one of the cleanest Thai eateries I’ve dined at in Singapore, and the food comes very promptly, even during dinner-time.
What it’s good for
The cockles are pretty much Kin Hoi’s unofficial poster dish — a mountain weighing in at a whopping 500g.
I get the half and half cockles (S$19) to try both versions (250g each) — Kin Hoi’s signature Thai spicy cockles and a Teochew-style that’s sweeter and milder.
The Thai spicy version is marinated in a punchy and bright blend full of chilli heat and herbs, while the latter swims in a garlicky soy mixture with a touch of sweetness, which I find more snackable — the spicy version can get hot fast.
More importantly, the cockles themselves are clean without any fishiness or metallic aftertaste. Just briny, tender, and very addictive.
The Thai boat noodles (S$7.50) deliver solid comfort with pork balls, liver, and lean meat, paired with chewy rice noodles. The broth has a nice spicy flavour that’s on the porky side, along with a bit of herbal intensity. A little more depth and complexity would make it extraordinary but as it stands, it’s hearty, comforting, and still good value for Orchard Road.
Another signature dish that’s all over social media: The crayfish tanghoon (S$18) comes in a claypot (it’s worth noting that the dish was likely cooked in a wok before being transferred into the claypot) loaded with herbs, garlic, and two small crayfishes split in half for easy peeling.
The flesh is parboiled just right — not too overcooked, which can be a common pitfall with this type of dish — and slightly sweet and bouncy. You’ll want to pull this out to soak up the fragrant Thai flavours from the vermicelli broth.
Speaking of, the noodles are where the dish really shines: Soft, bouncy and slicked with savoury broth, without turning mushy.
Then there’s the Melting beef (from S$15 for 170g), cubed, seared, and torched for extra smokiness. A quick look at the menu photo tells me that this is very likely Meltique beef — the kind with fat artificially injected inside, which explains how I got beef this tender, and in this portion, for this price.
It’s undeniably enjoyable though, with a pleasant tenderness and juiciness without tasting greasy. And when paired with rice and chilli, it becomes a home-style type meal that’s deeply satisfying.
Need a drink? Don’t skip the Thai milk tea (S$2.80). It’s an easy win: Simple, classic, and refreshing, with a nice milk flavour that’s not overly sweet, making a cooling pairing to Kin Hoi’s spicy and rich dishes.
What it could improve on
It’s impossible to talk about Thai crab meat omelettes without mentioning Jay Fai (even if most of us, myself included, have never tasted the Michelin-starred version in Bangkok).
Kin Hoi’s version (S$16.80) is likely a loose homage, the crab meat chucked on top of a golden and fluffy omelette, rather than wrapped inside.
The egg is crispy enough without being oily, but the crab meat — despite coming in copious amounts — is somewhat dry and flavourless. You’ll want to eat it together with the tangy garlic chilli you can get from the counter for a better experience. The dish isn’t expensive, but I’d rather Kin Hoi serve a smaller portion of better quality crab meat than large chunks of tough crab meat.
Our quick takes
Is it conducive to conversation? Yes, it’s casual and comfortable enough for catching up with friends.
Is a reservation necessary? Walk-ins only.
How to get there? Orchard Towers is an eight-minute walk away from Orchard Station Exit 1, cutting through the underpass towards Shaw House.
HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.
Hungry for the latest eats in Singapore? Check out Tutto, Jewel Changi Airport’s new Italian spot by the Da Paolo family, and Chick-Fil-A’s official opening on December 11.
Tue 10am - 3.30pm, 4.30pm - 9pm
Wed 10am - 3.30pm, 4.30pm - 9pm
Thu 10am - 3.30pm, 4.30pm - 9pm
Fri 10am - 3.30pm, 4.30pm - 9pm
Sat 10am - 3.30pm, 4.30pm - 9pm
Sun 10am - 3.30pm, 4.30pm - 9pm
Gary eats and knows things, which he attributes to over 30 years of eating and drinking — surely that must count for something, he surmises. He was previously the deputy editor at City Nomads and content lead at Burpple.
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