Review: New Jungle restaurant serves up spectacularly spiced regional Thai cuisine

I struggled to recall what bar Jungle took over at 10 Ann Siang Hill when I walked up to the location; my only memory was that we didn’t enjoy ourselves the last time we were there.

A quick search on Google promptly jogged my memory, and I was all the more grateful that this new, widely lauded Thai grill spot was now in its place (sorry, not sorry). 

While Thai restaurants may be plentiful in Singapore, Jungle’s approach and menu stood out from the get-go — the spot prides itself on showcasing the diversity of Thai cuisine beyond the rudimentary Thai street food dishes we’re more familiar with.

To do this, the menu remains lean and concise — its emphasis is on bold flavours and curated ingredients from different Thai regions. It also occasionally rotates its curry offerings, keeping the menu fresh and compelling diners to return. 

The backstory

Jungle is founded by Ranvin Bajwa and chef Liaw Wei Loon (who was once sous chef at Adrift by David Myers and chef de cuisine at L’Angelus).

The idea for the restaurant has been in the works since 2018. After visiting various regions in Thailand regularly for menu inspiration over the years, the duo finally put pen to paper and decided that now was an opportune time to open up a physical outlet at Ann Siang Hill.

Jungle’s Thai-focused menu is inspired by Bangkok’s buzzing nightlife and its vibrant street food culture, featuring an open-fire kitchen that churns out flame-kissed regional Thai fare and hand-pounded curry pastes. 

Everything is lovingly made from scratch with produce and ingredients directly procured from local farmers in Thailand.

Our verdict

On the Saturday evening we dropped by, Jungle was bustling with diners. Classic funk and soul blared from the speakers, competing with diners’ chatter, and numerous couples were enjoying a weekend date night (much like myself and my dining companion).

It could be a sweeping statement to proclaim the food here’s a 10 out of 10, but it was tough to find fault with any dish we had — especially the pomelo-lemongrass salad (S$18). If a salad can win the top vote at this four-month-old establishment, you best believe that its mains (and grilled meats) are instant winners.

That said, Jungle’s drinks section could use more refining as its selections are pretty forgettable when stacked against its powerhouses such as the duck laab and Southern crab yellow curry.

What it’s good for

The evening started on a solid note with the pomelo-lemongrass salad, an appetiser from rural North Thailand — trust me when I say I didn’t expect the very first course to emerge as my favourite. But it’s a good thing it did. 

The salad is a refreshing, citrusy number that surprises the palate (in the best way) with savoury dried shrimp and topped with candied coconut. 

In fact it’s so good that you might want to consider being selfish and ordering this appetiser just for yourself, but if I’m being really honest, the food here is just too good to just have the starter alone.

I’ve enjoyed hearty helpings of laab (or larb, is a Laotian meat salad) while in Laos and Cambodia, so I already had a mental image of a rich, gamey serving of tender Northern duck laab when I saw duck laab (S$20) on Jungle’s menu.

For context, most laab dishes in Singapore tend to be Isaan-inspired, which are typically sour and spicy, but Jungle’s version is less chilli-focused, highlighting a 14-spice blend local to the mountainous region of Lanna.Its duck laab is a complex, aromatic dish best eaten with the accompanying cabbage leaves. Beyond its intense flavours, the dish’s varied textures — crunchy, tender, and mildly chewy — also make for a memorable dish.

There’s been plenty of buzz surrounding Jungle’s Southern crab yellow curry (S$30) and its deliciousness, so naturally, my expectations were heightened. 

Don’t let the yellow-coloured curry throw you off; despite its seemingly innocuous appearance, it packed enough spice to have me wishing I had more white rice readily available at the table.

Intense heat aside, the curry was well-received at the table (although the pomelo-lemongrass salad is still firmly my top choice!) with its sweet gravy and generous dose of crab meat. After allowing my palate to cool off a little, I went back for seconds until we mopped it clean; if my partner could lick the bowl, I’m sure he would’ve.

Our final savoury dish for the evening, lamb breast skewer (S$15) had to work hard to impress us, especially since the duck laab had left an indelible mark with its spice blend, and thankfully it did.  

Noticing that the menu listing was for one skewer, we were almost compelled to order another, but were advised that one skewer was sufficient, given the items we had already ordered. 

Luckily, we heeded Jungle’s sage advice in true compliant Singaporean fashion and managed to avoid the dreaded food coma that would’ve otherwise hit us. 

The lamb cubes were plump, juicy, and tender and its flavours complemented the other dishes we had so far perfectly. 

When Jungle said that its dishes were made and best enjoyed for sharing, we completely got what they meant as we enjoyed the moreishness of the duck laab and the subtle gameyness of the lamb, all with the fluffy, white rice, doused with the spicy crab curry. 

When it came to the finale, despite only having one dessert option on its menu, the banana cake (S$14) was a robust choice that can certainly hold its own. It comes with a drizzle of gula melaka caramel and a scoop of coconut ice-cream, and is served on a charred banana leaf.

The cake was perfectly fluffy, and the accompanying gula melaka and creamy coconut ice cream were the proverbial cherry on top of this very delicious cake — I think this is easily one of the best iterations I’ve enjoyed in a while.

What it could improve on

While the kitchen kept churning hit after hit, the drinks fell short in comparison — that’s not to say they were terrible, but Jungle’s cocktails’ personalities failed to shine when placed alongside the massive flavours we enjoyed during dinner

The mango sticky sour (S$18) was pleasant — almost too tame — bordering on tasting like a virgin pina colada. As someone whose go-to drinks alternate between a negroni and an Old Fashioned, its take, the Old Fashion (S$22), which tasted a tad watered-down and one-dimensional, didn’t stir any excitement within me.

It lacked the recognisable bitter punch that the classic tipple is known for, or maybe this version was just not suited for my taste.

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? As the tables are situated close to each other, it can be pretty challenging to have intimate conversations without neighbouring diners eavesdropping (intentionally or not).

Is a reservation necessary? Yes. Limited time slots were available when we made the reservation for a Saturday evening, so get in there quick if you’re keen on a weekend meal.

How to get there? Jungle is a 3-minute walk from Maxwell MRT station’s exit 2.

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.

For the latest eats, check out Ahimsa Sanctuary right around the corner at Neil Road, or read about Chinatown Point’s variety of food finds. 

Do explore the GrabFood Dine Out service for awesome deals.

You can also book a ride to Jungle at Ann Siang Hill.