Review: At Bancheria, Seoul meets Spain, with one leaving more of an impression

The backstory

For eagle-eyed folk, you might have noticed that Bancheria takes the space of the former Mr and Mrs B Cafe, which originated from Manila, Philippines. 

The concept opened in April, serving Malaysian fare, but lacklustre response prompted a pivot and a rebrand into its current fusion Bancheria concept that we know of today.

The kitchen is led by chef Dannel Krishnan, whose resume spans fine-dining and progressive kitchens, including Caviar at Palais Renaissance and Oishii Ristorante.

Known for his instinctive approach to flavour and a career that’s straddled both Asian and European influences, chef Dannel seemed like more than an apt candidate to navigate the tricky territory of cross-cultural cooking.

By combining the communal spirit of Korean banchan with the conviviality of Spanish tapas culture, he hopes to bring forth sharing plates that surprise through their balance and intention.

Our verdict

I didn’t expect to like Bancheria as much as I did, but I have to admit, it won me over through and through. The flavours were bold and memorable, yet distinct enough that each plate held its own. 

Chef Dannel’s foray is ample proof that fusion cuisines can work when handled with restraint — even though it’s clear that at Bancheria the balance tips more toward the Korean side. What sets them apart is also the array of housemade ferments that diners can spot on shelves along a wall; these ferments are featured across the menu, from the banchan to the flavoured honeys for the hotteok.

The menu is anchored by the signature Bancheria banchan platter filled with nine rotating side dishes that keep regulars guessing and newcomers delighted.

It’s a clever way to open the palate before moving into what the team calls its “belly fillers” — hearty noodle and rice bowls that bring depth and comfort, perfect for sharing once the small plates have whetted your appetite.

To complement these mains, there are also tapas-style proteins and salads, a variety of cold cuts and cheeses, deep-fried appetisers (such as mozzarella balls and chicken wings), as well as mini open-faced sandwiches.

It’s safe to say there are plenty of food options, regardless of what you’re hankering — and thankfully, an equally expansive drinks menu to pair. Aside from the usual coffees, soft drinks, wines, and liquors, it also offers a lean selection of cocktails, such as a Seoul spritz, and soju (of course). 

Space-wise, the restaurant is a tad compact and can be a squeeze for bigger groups. Still, this is negated by the bustle and energy of the crowd, and a welcome aspect of communal dining. 

It’s the type of spot that’s just right for an evening of shared plates, laughter, and maybe a friendly debate over who gets the last croquette.

Though not everything hit the mark and the menu items seemed more Korean than Korean-Spanish, Bancheria has something that many self-proclaimed “fusion” spots lack — a clear sense of flavour, fun, and a chef who knows when to let the food do the talking.

What it’s good for

To get a true sense of Bancheria’s offerings, we started things off with the signature Bancheria banchan platter (S$12 per diner, refillable up to three times) — its mainstay colourful spread of nine rotating side dishes.

When we visited in mid-October, our platter featured Korean tomato kimchi (salted and fermented cabbage with tomatoes), white bean chorizo stew with red wine cheese, spicy daikon anchovies, mentaiko seafood, olives, Korean sweet potato, quail egg, pickled wakame (pickled kelp), and Korean mushroom muchim (mushrooms in mixed seasoning).

It might just be tiny bites, but it was evident that everything was made from scratch, and you can taste the care in each bite. 

The standouts? The umami-packed mushrooms, the refreshingly tangy wakame, the sour-spicy daikon anchovies, and the savoury tomato kimchi. The finesse of the platter was also proof that variety doesn’t mean compromise.

And we could see, judging by how nearly every table in the restaurant had a platter, that it had struck the same chord with the other diners, too. 

Next, the wagyu rib fingers galbi, kimchi leek salad (S$12) took over the spotlight . The dish featured tender, sweet-savoury boneless beef bites, chopped to a size just right for wrapping in lettuce. 

The grilled beef short ribs had plenty of char, which matched perfectly with the saltiness of soya sauce. It also comes with pieces of shredded tangy leek kimchi, which offset the richness and made this a delight to polish off.

Equally surprising was the Korean watermelon salad (S$9). It’s a riff on hwachae (a Korean punch drink), with watermelon cubes soaked in honeyed water, tossed with feta, mint, and candied pecans.

The macerated watermelon cubes were such a delight to enjoy, especially against the brittle crunch of candied pecans. Taken together, it’s a sweet dish, sure, but never cloying.

In fact, if you’re coming in from a sweaty walk from the train station, this starter is a great way to beat the heat as it’s refreshing, textural, and quietly brilliant.

By now we were nearly new converts of Banceria, but it was the spicy wagyu galbi ramyun (S$24) that sealed the deal. 

Generous chunks of melt-in-the-mouth galbi rested in a deeply savoury, mildly spicy broth, tangled with springy instant noodles, topped with a soft egg.

Judging from the wagyu galbi rib fingers dish and now this ramyun dish, I think it’s safe to say Bancheria knows how to cook a mean galbi. This rendition of galbi was immensely hearty and comforting.

The noodles still retained their springy chewiness, while the peppering of garlic slices added fragrance and a slight bite to every mouthful. 

The portion is sufficient for one, but you’d do better to share so you can enjoy more dishes off its menu. 

Our suggestion is to order the signature platter, a bunch of sides — such as the tapas plates and deep-fried items — and add one or two carby mains if you’re not full after the tapas or if you’re sharing among a larger group. 

And of course, let’s not forget that a meal with the Koreans and Spanish isn’t complete without a drink or two.

If you’re looking for a thirst quencher with just an edge of booze, the very affordably priced Seoul spritz (S$12) — vodka with soju-infused sour plum, honey citron tea, and yuzu juice — is crisp and balanced. 

It’s the sort of cocktail that stays in the background so the food can take centre stage (but it also means you might be obliged to order more —  and we’re sure you’d more than oblige with such a wallet-friendly price tag of S$12 per cocktail.

Other drink options on the menu include sangrias (red and white), a brief selection of sojus, and the option to create a bespoke tipple (at just S$15) based on sour, fruity, or sweet notes.

Having been wowed so far by everything, we decided to end things off with a simple yet smart closer: Hotteok with homemade honey selections (S$5 per piece). There are other desserts on the menu, such as churros and ice cream, but since the more Korean-leaning dishes fared well, why not just go with the flow?

Plus, it’s not every day you get to enjoy this Korean street-favourite with a variety of sweet and savoury honeys, and Bancheria’s comes with not one, but five. 

The chewy, molten brown-sugar pancake comes with a selection of honeys — barley, spice, garlic, corn, and peppermint — all of which are displayed proudly on the restaurant’s wall of ferments.

Honestly, even without the honey, the warm hotteok was enjoyable on its own. The exterior was slightly flaky with an incredibly soft inside, complete with a generous filling of oozy brown sugar syrup.

You might think there isn’t a need for the honey, but we say give the savoury ones, such as the garlic, corn, or spiced honey, a shot. They add nuance to the otherwise-straightforward hotteok filling.

My pick? Surprisingly, the garlic honey was the clear winner — hotteok and garlic, who would have guessed with a sweet-savoury edge that lingers.

What it could improve on

With all that said, the only real miss of the night was the Bancheria paprika fried chicken wings (S$12 for two). While the meat was tender and juicy, the taste was quite flat and dominated by little else apart.

A touch of garlic or a bit of tang would have helped to elevate the wings a little more, or even a drizzle of one of its different types of honey. 

That said, if there’s a broader critique of the spot, it’s that the Korean-Spanish theme doesn’t fully register until you’re halfway through the meal.

Right from the banchan platter at the start, it’s clear Korean influences dominate — from flavour profiles to presentation — while the Spanish elements seem a bit of an afterthought, only apparent through the tapas-style serving format, the occasional cut of Duroc pork, or the inclusion of cold cuts.

That’s not a complaint, though, as our experience showed us that Bancheria was more than capable of executing casual Korean fare with flair. But it does leave you wondering what a truly balanced Korean-Spanish menu might look like in the hands of chef Dannel. 

Perhaps, with time and a few creative risks, this promising concept will grow into the bold cross-cultural endeavour it has set out to be. 

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? Piped music plays in the background, and it gets progressively louder and more high-energy as the crowd grows, so time your visit for the earlier part of the day if you wish to hold more intimate conversations.

Is a reservation necessary? As the dining space is modest, with less than 30 seats indoors, and a handful outdoors, reservations are highly recommended.

How to get there? Bancheria is a 9-minute walk from Nicoll Highway MRT Exit A.

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.

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