Review: Bjorn Shen’s Artichoke at New Bahru sees promising new vibes and menu

The last time I visited Artichoke was a couple of years ago, but I always recall being impressed by its unauthentic (and unapologetically so) Middle Eastern food. 

It’s the kind of place that consistently draws in a crowd of people in the know, yet somehow manages to stay away from the limelight.

I always attributed this to its refusal to go down the conventional route of Valentine’s and Christmas menus, but it could also be a number of things, from its 1990s hip-hop music that’s blaring too loudly to its eclectic decor. 

Its decor is made up of a mishmash of cult movie memorabilia, self-created artworks, and what I like to call “grandma plates”.

Now that it’s moved out from the long-time Middle Road location to the fresh new digs of New Bahru (the new River Valley enclave by The Lo & Behold Group), it was time to see whether the Artichoke we knew has changed, and what currently stands there now.

The backstory

Artichoke isn’t a new brand at all. In fact, it’s one of those restaurants that’s been around for more than a decade, since 2010, and given its longevity, owner-chef Bjorn Shen must be doing something right. After all, the Masterchef Singapore judge was once hailed as Singapore’s most rebellious chef and the pioneer of “dudestronomy”. 

His shtick here is serving the least authentic Middle Eastern food (Artichoke now brands itself as “new school” Middle Eastern) in town, from lamb merguez burgers to jackfruit fermented chilli halloumi. 

While the new place feels a lot more polished now, it still retains some of the colourful personality that I know and love about this place. There’s colourful street art stickers over the counter, AI-generated art conceptualised by Chef Shen himself and influences of 1960s and 1990s hip hop all around. 

Our verdict

The lowdown: the food here is still delicious and fun, though the menu is noticeably smaller than before. It’s not cheap, but there’s value to be found here. 

I headed down for brunch, and for three mains, a dessert, and two drinks, the final bill does not feel extortionate for the quality and this spanking new location. 

I already miss the cobblestone courtyard from its previous location, but the design and ambience here has its charms. 

I’ll need to come back for dinner to get the full picture, but for now, this new New Bahru restaurant is something I can enthusiastically get behind.

What it’s good for

Are you all about that brunch life? Head down to Artichoke on the weekends for some comforting Middle Eastern fix. The menu is tight for now, but it is mostly fricking delicious.

Take the hummus plate (S$20), for one: You get hummus that’s as smooth as soft butter and spiced with cumin, but that’s not all. 

It comes topped with gorgeous, charred mushrooms seasoned with a thyme spice mix, a chopped mint and dill salad, a soft and jammy egg soaked in an aromatic baharat blend (think the likes of cumin, coriander, cinnamon, nutmeg, star anise), and some zhoug – a sort of spicy cilantro pesto – to bring it all together.

There’s also a side of lemony-sweet orange-pink onion and cucumber pickles to add some tartness to this very yummy mix. 

Your vehicle for scooping all of this up is a chunk of warm crusty Turkish bread that’s very fluffy inside. 

I might or might not have finished up the bread too quickly and ended up using the bun from the next dish to mop up the sloppy mix. Alll of it.

The M.E.C. spicy (S$28) could not taste more different than the fiery McDonald’s burger after which it’s named, but darn is this good. 

This is not some ho-hum patty between two slices of bread with bland mayonnaise, but a distinctive lamb merguez patty — a red, mildly hot powerhouse of a lamb sausage with a spicy and earthy flavour from the spice and harissa mix. 

The patty is topped with scrambled egg and cheddar cheese, cucumber pickles, toum garlic sauce, and a tangy and sweet guava barbecue sauce.

The firm buns are heavily dotted with toasted black and white sesame and sunflower seeds that hold well against the stronger flavours. 

The dinner menu retains favourites such as the roasted cauliflower, but Artichoke opts for frying the vegetable for the cauliflower mujadara (S$22), a somewhat traditional vegetarian dish. 

First of all, the fried florets are excellent: Nicely charred, tender, and speckled with crunchy sesame seeds, with a drizzle of savoury tahini that amps up the nuttiness. 

There’s also a simple tomato cucumber relish and a spicy chunky onion dip that’s just delicious — everything sits on a bed of fragrant and fluffy onion lentil rice that’s tasty, but also a bit on the salty side.

Turkish tea typically comes in two distinct styles: The bold and robust traditional black tea that’s an invigorating experience and the fruit-infused kind that highlights the delightful sweetness of apple, pomegranate and rosehip.

The cold brew Turkish tea (S$7) falls into the latter. There’s a drop of bitterness, tastes slightly sour and astringent from the slice of lemon and dehydrated pineapple, and also has some warm, spicy cinnamon sweetness. A taste of Middle Eastern paradise, perhaps?

While traditional Turkish ayran (a yoghurt-based beverage) is light, frothy, and salty, the sweet ayran (S$8) here is interesting because it reminds me more of a creamy lassi. 

Aryan is a great way to cool off on a hot day, almost like a Turkish version of 100PLUS, and Artichoke does an even more elevated version of that. 

The creamy drink is slightly sweet, savoury and tart, with the addition of pistachio crumbs and dried rose petals on top for a nutty and floral hit — this pairs well with stronger meat dishes such as the lamb merguez.  

Milk baklava is one of those new-gen creations that popped out of necessity during the pandemic, when Turkish vendors needed to find some way to attract the pittance of tourists that strolled their paths. It’s a dish that Chef Bjorn and his team recently discovered on a trip to Istanbul, and there’s naturally an Artichoke rendition of this. 

The milk in his cold milk baklava (S$18) is spiced up with lemongrass for that citrusy Asian tang, and the walnuts within are toasted with sugar for an extra hit of caramel. 

The buttery filo pastry is flaky and crisp, but also tender and almost creamy from absorbing a bit of milk, which spots a hint of strawberries — it’s basically a party in your mouth, a very good one. 

What it could improve on

Open kitchens, or rather, counter-seating at an open kitchen can be a double-edged sword. 

When you’re seated that close to the action, you witness all the teething issues firsthand: Gluten ingredients not swapped out promptly for an intolerant customer, new cooks being taught to plate properly in the middle of lunch service, and all that jazz. 

But such things are to be expected, and even tolerated, of a new restaurant of this size. 

Minutes later, the gluten-intolerant customer has already gotten a creamy avocado on their plate, courtesy of Chef Bjorn — two decades of experience in the kitchen is nothing to scoff at. 

Our quick takes

Is it conducive to conversation? Yes, but be mindful of the 90- and 120-minute dining limitation, during lunch and dinner respectively.

Is a reservation necessary? Very good to have, especially on weekends.

How to get there? Artichoke is on the first floor of New Bahru, a 13-minute walk from Fort Canning MRT Station Exit A.

HungryGoWhere paid for its meal at this restaurant for this review.

For the latest on the food scene, read our review of Go Rogue, a new loaded sando spot by former 46 Mittsu chefs, and our take on Kaunta Singapore’s new Tsujihan-inspired kaisendons. 

 Do explore the GrabFood Dine Out service for awesome deals.  

Alternatively, book a ride to get your hands on these chirashi dons in Singapore.